tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22003809113829242992024-03-15T21:09:20.462-04:00Aviation MaintenanceAll things related to aviation tools and tool storageJaredhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06281606873543691407noreply@blogger.comBlogger15125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200380911382924299.post-54449846873191842018-02-16T09:41:00.000-05:002018-02-16T09:41:06.683-05:00What does an aircraft airframe and powerplant career look like?<div style="font-family: gotham, helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> Someone wrote on my blog a
while ago and asked a question that I believe is worth exploring. “I’m 17 years
old and I’m curious about this career.
Can someone tell me more about this?
Is this a good career as in salary and job options?” The fact that this individual is asking these
questions means that they are probably far ahead of the curve as far as
thinking about the future (or at least ahead of me at 17). These are great questions to ask about any
career, and I will attempt to broadly answer some of these questions.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> For those who like to skip the
heavy reading, here is my brief summary: Being an aircraft mechanic can be
a very fulfilling and financially rewarding career choice for those who enjoy
learning and working with their hands. The job field is highly cyclical
and the best opportunities will usually go to those who either reside in major
metropolitan areas or are willing to be geographically mobile. It also
rewards those with specialized skill sets and applicable experience and
training. Is that succinct enough? Now let me tease that out into a mere 4,000
words.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> Here is a brief list of questions to ask
yourself before you go to A&P school:</span></div>
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<li style="background: white; mso-background-themecolor: background1; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Do
you enjoy working with your hands?</span></li>
<li style="background: white; mso-background-themecolor: background1; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Are
you okay with moving and/or living in a major metro area to further your
career?</span></li>
<li style="background: white; mso-background-themecolor: background1; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Are
you okay with giving up marijuana (legal or not) in order to work in this
field? - this issue came up a surprising number of times while I was in
A&P school</span></li>
<li style="background: white; mso-background-themecolor: background1; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Are
you willing to work odd shifts and hours (nights, weekends, holidays,
overtime)? If not, the career options are much more limited.
The nature of our business (very high fixed costs), makes downtime very
expensive. </span></li>
<li style="background: white; mso-background-themecolor: background1; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Are
you okay with earning a wage in the $50,000-80,000 range, and likely
starting out lower than that?</span></li>
<li style="background: white; mso-background-themecolor: background1; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Are
you okay with a career that will likely require you to change employers
multiple times?</span></li>
<li style="background: white; mso-background-themecolor: background1; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Are
you okay with a career that requires you to pay your dues and build your
experience before you really launch?</span></li>
</ul>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">To me, the most pressing question is whether or not you will
enjoy your chosen career field. I will
attempt to help you address that question first. If you are the kind of person who enjoys
tinkering with thing and learning about how they work (be it 4x4’s, cars, four
wheelers, paintball guns, R/C cars, model airplanes, etc), you will probably
enjoy this career field. It doesn’t take
a mechanical genius to make a good mechanic (though it certainly doesn’t hurt)
because I believe the most important characteristic of a good mechanic is sound
judgment. If you feel confident enough
to change your own oil and basic repairs and maintenance on your cars and house
(change out a kitchen faucet, assemble an IKEA shelf –{ on further consideration,
strike that from the record, if you can do that first try you are in the
mechanical genius pool}, unclog a sink trap, change spark plugs and wires) and
don’t mind doing it yourself, you will be able to figure out the mechanical
part of the job. I would not recommend
this job if you don’t know what a Vise-Grip is, or how to use it. I had classmates who were at that level, and
while one of them did make through and is a mechanic, most washed out of the
program because the learning curve was too steep for them. If you enjoy working with your hands this
career may be a good option for you. One
other subject that I feel compelled to touch on is marijuana or any other recreational
drug usage. While cultural attitudes
towards have shifted, especially towards marijuana, this is not the career for
you if you want to enjoy recreational marijuana. Pretty much every job that requires an
aircraft mechanic’s license will be in a safety sensitive position that will
require pre-employment, post-accident and random drug screenings. Let me tell you that there is very little
(read: none) momentum for removing marijuana from the DOT’s of banned
substances (<a href="https://www.transportation.gov/odapc/medical-marijuana-notice"><span style="color: blue;">https://www.transportation.gov/odapc/medical-marijuana-notice</span></a>). It is basically a one strike and you are out,
probably forever, if you fail a drug screening.
A prospective employer is required to find out if you have ever failed
or declined a drug test for a previous safety sensitive position. If you aren’t okay with that, this is not the
career field for you.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">If you still feel like aviation maintenance might be a good
fit for you, a good place to start learning about careers in aircraft
maintenance is the Bureau of Labor and Statistics' website (<a href="https://www.bls.gov/ooh/installation-maintenance-and-repair/aircraft-and-avionics-equipment-mechanics-and-technicians.htm"><span style="color: blue;">https://www.bls.gov/ooh/installation-maintenance-and-repair/aircraft-and-avionics-equipment-mechanics-and-technicians.htm</span></a>).
It contains a wealth of information about job duties, career
opportunities and outlooks, and salary information (including geographic
specific information - look under state and area data). It has a lot of
very valuable data and can be a very useful tool in negotiating your salary and
benefits. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> Aircraft maintenance is a very
unique career field that has some unusual advantages and drawbacks. The
first thing to know about the field of aviation maintenance is that it is a
very cyclical, unstable industry. If you are hoping to hire on somewhere
and work there for the rest of your life, this is probably not going to be the
career for you (and there are less and less other careers where staying in one
place is even a possibility). The vast majority of aircraft mechanics
that I know have worked for multiple employers in multiple geographical
locations throughout their career. This fact is predominately a function
of the nature of the aircraft business (cyclical, heavily dependent on
disposable income, bankruptcies and mergers as standard business practices),
and particularly the airline business (where a large portion of the jobs are).
Aircraft maintenance is also a very geographically mobile field (which
may be a plus to some, and a huge drawback to others). If you have dreams
of returning to/remaining in the small town where you grew up or simply want to
remain geographically fixed somewhere outside of a major metro area, this will
probably be a tough career field. If you are willing /excited to be
geographically mobile and/or want to live in a major metro area, a job position
of some kind will pretty much always be available to you. In general, aircraft maintenance is a pretty
solid career in return for a two year, mostly technical education. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> The basic
credential within the industry is the Airframe and Powerplant (hereafter
referred to as an A&P) license, obtained through testing with the FAA. Obtaining an A&P requires passing 6
separate tests. There 3 multiple choice
written tests that require a minimum score of 70% over, respectively, airframe,
powerplant, and general curriculum.
There are also 3 “Oral and Practical” tests that will require the
candidate to answer questions and perform practical tasks correctly in different
subject areas related to those three categories. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">There are two basic ways to earn the
right to test for an A&P: Attend a
part 147 school (so named because that is the section of federal government law
that governs A&P schools), or accumulate 4,800 hours of experience working
on airplanes in some capacity (in the military, as an apprentice, or in a
“repair station” {the license is owned by the company rather than the
individual so they don’t have to hire A&P’s}). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> Gaining
your A&P through a part 147 school has advantages and drawbacks. Some of the advantages are the availability
of an accredited degree at many institutions, the availability of financial aid
(again, typically only at accredited institutions), a broad range of exposure
(which will help you figure out what you might like/dislike/be good at and
about the career and specific niches in it), good guidance and preparation for
studying for and passing the FAA A&P tests, and a network to help you with
future job hunts. Many schools also
offer placement assistance to help you find a job. Some schools can be completed in as little as
a year (full-time, no summer break), though two is more common (it took me 3
years because of one class that wasn’t offered till my final semester). The downsides are that you will need to find
a way to pay for classes (though at accredited institutions, student loans,
scholarships, and grants are widely available – talk to the admissions
department at your target school to find out more) and not all of the training
that you gain will be useful. The
academic part of the schooling is not very rigorous at most of the schools I
have been around (though there are exceptions to that). In general, if you graduated high school or
got your GED you should have no problem with the academics. The education and career opportunities
offered by different schools vary tremendously. Oftentimes schools will
employ very good teachers alongside very poor teachers, and too often (in my
experience), the quality of the education is heavily dependent on the level of
each student's engagement (I.E. If you are interested, ask questions and apply
yourself, you will receive a good education, otherwise not). I had a
number of classmates who skated through classes with good grades but did not
apply themselves, got to the end of the program, and realized that they hadn't
really learned very much and were unable to pass the tests required to receive
their Airframe and Powerplant License.
In talking with others in my industry who have come from different
schools, it seems like, generally speaking,
the private schools do a much better job with career support
post-education (bringing in employers, interview coaching, resume building,
etc.). I know that my (public) school
had support as far as interview and resume prep, but there was little to no
industry engagement. Most A&P
programs offer you the opportunity to take a few general education classes (my
program required 6 classes or 18 credits) and add an associate’s degree in
addition to the certificate that allows you to take the A&P test. My own take on that is that I would generally
encourage that as long as you understand that it will probably make little to
no difference in pay or opportunities at the beginning of your career, but it
will mean more as you move up through the ranks (management within the industry
often comes a maintenance background, so it is likely you will have opportunity
to move in that direction so if you are so gifted and inclined) and
particularly if you decide to pursue further education (as I did by obtaining a
bachelor’s degree). As you evaluate
schools, I would encourage you to visit them and try to talk to both students
and professors. If you happen to know
someone or can connect to someone via Linkedin or Facebook who has graduated
from the program, ask them what their experience was like. Did they feel like they were well prepared to
enter the workforce? What professors did
they like, want to avoid? What
opportunities did they have coming out of school? How much did school cost? How did they pay for it? You can glean a lot from someone who has
recently trod the path you are looking to travel. You can find search the list of Part 147
mechanic schools here: <a href="http://av-info.faa.gov/MaintenanceSchool.asp"><span style="color: blue;">http://av-info.faa.gov/MaintenanceSchool.asp</span></a>
(beware that an organization may hold a part 147 ticket but not have an
operating school). The FAA also puts out
reports regarding the test scores and passing rates for each certificated school
here: <a href="https://www.faa.gov/data_research/aviation_data_statistics/test_statistics/"><span style="color: blue;">https://www.faa.gov/data_research/aviation_data_statistics/test_statistics/</span></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> Scores and passing rate aren’t
everything, but you can get some kind of idea about how many graduates a
program is turning out and how prepared they are for the tests based on this
information. A large number of
candidates with generally high scores and passing rates is obviously a really
good sign. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The experience method can be a great
option for some people, though it generally doesn’t offer as broad an education
as school does and will require some pretty serious self-study in order to pass
the required FAA tests. The upside is
that you typically have a paid job (or at least don’t have to pay for school),
and the work experience you gain is obviously completely applicable (A&P
part 147 curriculum is in the process being updated, but some of it just won’t
be applicable to your work career).
Another downside is that even working full time, 4,800 hours is 2 ½ years, working part-time 10 hours a week
it would be over 9 years! You are
required to keep records of your hours and what you did during those hours, as
well as have it signed off by an A&P mechanic. The requirements may be found on the FAA
website (<a href="https://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-idx?c=ecfr&sid=6d0c9eeb7fd01619d428ab2e585e5255&rgn=div5&view=text&node=14:2.0.1.1.4&idno=14#_top"><span style="color: blue;">https://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-idx?c=ecfr&sid=6d0c9eeb7fd01619d428ab2e585e5255&rgn=div5&view=text&node=14:2.0.1.1.4&idno=14#_top</span></a>),
or you can call your local Flight Standards District Office (hereafter referred
to as the FSDO) (The FSDO locations/regions also can be found on the FAA
website) for guidance on what they would like to see. I must admit a complete ignorance on what is
required for those from a military background, but this link seemed to have
some really good information: <a href="https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/gaining-ap-certification-wmilitary-experience-part-1-4-joe-williams"><span style="color: blue;">https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/gaining-ap-certification-wmilitary-experience-part-1-4-joe-williams</span></a>. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Another certification within the industry that I will just
touch on briefly is the Inspection Authorization or “IA”. It is a certification only available to
A&P mechanics who have held their license for at least 2 years, been
engaged in maintenance during that time and who have passed a written (multiple
choice) test and an interview with their FAA representative. It allows the mechanic to “sign off” certain
maintenance tasks that a basic A&P is not allowed to. Many employers like to see their employees
pursue this and will offer financial incentives to do so. Some jobs (like my current one) require it as
a condition of employment. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> The next
step after acquiring your A&P license is what I view as the most
challenging, and that is landing your first job and gaining your initial
experience. Getting hired is kind of
catch-22, especially for students coming out of a part 147 school. Most employers are reluctant to hire someone
with no experience but obviously there is no way to gain experience without
being hired. Breaking into the industry
is difficult, but there are opportunities.
I have few words of advice here:
Be persistent, utilize your network, talk to people face to face if at
all possible, over the phone as a last resort, and be willing to move if need
be. Do not expect to get an interview based solely on an online
application - this does happen, but rarely in my experience. If you don’t immediately find something, find
a way to stay engaged in aviation via volunteering or working an aviation job
outside of maintenance (line work, gate agent, etc.). Employers want to see any kind of experience,
and it will also be valuable to you from a learning standpoint. There aren’t really any shortcuts here that I
am aware of. You will need to pay your
dues from an employment standpoint.
Based on my own admittedly anecdotal experience and observing my classmates,
most of the time you will have to put in your time in a challenging work
environment before you can move on (or up) to one with better prospects. Most of the entry level positions pay poorly
(think $10-20 an hour depending on where you live), but most of them do at
least offer benefits. One word of
caution, it is difficult if not impossible to determine the ethical culture of
company prior to your employment, but there are a small minority of companies
that will engage in shady business practices and that will put pressure on you
as a mechanic to do things that are not ethical or safe. Not surprisingly this type of company will
typically struggle to hire and retain employees, so they will target hiring new
graduates because they won't know enough have enough options to avoid the
company. You need to be willing to look
to move on from that employer if you feel that is the situation. The most common entry level positions are in
general aviation (think small, piston driven airplanes), regional airlines, and
larger repair stations. You would be one
in a million if you start out at your dream job in this industry. Good companies will provide some pathway of
upward mobility as well as useful skills and training. Those are the kind of companies that you can
make a career at if you so choose. Most companies that are hiring fresh
graduates are understandably hesitant to make big investments in rookie
mechanics that may or may not stick. Try
to find out if the company that you are looking at working for offers any
training or certifications to their employees.
If you have a choice, I would recommend looking for places that work on
commonly used airframes that are still in production (i.e. Boeing 737). If you have wonderful experience on an
oddball aircraft it will not be as useful for your future career prospects if
you have to move on from your original employer. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> I would segment the
industry roughly as follows (though I will undoubtedly miss some, some
cross-pollinate, etc.): Avionics, regional
airlines, major airlines, general aviation, domestic contract work, overseas
contract work, corporate aviation, manufacturing, large-scale
Maintenance/Repair/ Overhaul (MRO), helicopter, air medical, non-aviation (i.e.
wind farms and locomotives) and education.
Most often the easiest places to break into with no experience are MRO,
manufacturing, regional airlines, non-aviation, and general aviation. They will also typically offer lower starting
pay. Most typically do offer benefits
like retirement, health insurance, educational assistance, paid time off, etc.
</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> Once you reach a baseline
level of experience (that 2-5 year mark) and higher level pay scale, employers
weigh heavily prior experience on the aircraft that you will be maintaining when
making hiring decisions. Employers also like to see the development of
useful skill-sets that are not necessarily aircraft specific. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> The most important experience
in my estimation is electrical troubleshooting. Aircraft are rapidly
increasing in electrical complexity, and as those systems age, they require
more and more maintenance. Many of the components in electrical systems
run $10,000 and even more, so the cost for changing the wrong component, or
replacing a component when you actually have a wiring issue is really
high. Developing your electrical troubleshooting skills should be a
priority if you are interested in this career. Youtube is a great
resource for better understanding how to use a multi-meter for
troubleshooting and also understanding electrical theory. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> Another skill-set that is growing in
importance is the field of composite repair. This tends to be much more
specialized and require more job-specific training to perform, but more and
more aircraft are going towards composite airframes in order to save weight and
prevent corrosion. As those airframes mature, they will require more
repairs. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> There are a number of other specialties:
Avionics, sheet-metal repair, hydraulics, air conditioning, painting.
Adding any or all of these specialties to your resume will make you more
attractive to prospective employers. I kept a personal maintenance log
where I recorded what airframes I had worked on and what work I had performed
on them for my first couple of years in industry. This is especially
useful if you are working on a lot of different aircraft. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> Once you reach that 2-5 year level of
experience, you will start to have a lot more job options within the industry,
and you will probably have a much better idea of what you would like to do/are
good at. The career progression for aviation maintenance is that you
typically will either develop a specialized skillset and pursue increasing
levels in that or else move into management. The management track typically
involves becoming a shift lead/supervisor, then director of maintenance.
There may be several more layers of management depending on the size and
structure of the company, but typically moving up in management means moving
more and more away from hands-on work towards paperwork and managing
people. The most important skills for management will be communication
and reading/interpreting data. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> One more "skill" that I feel
compelled to touch on is judgment. The FAA licensure allows us to
exercise our judgment to determine what is, or is not, airworthy. Many
times the manufacturer will give you concrete data to tell you what is
airworthy or not (e.g. if a spark plug is worn to these dimensions it needs
replaced), but some times there will not be specific data related to what you
see or find (e.g. an air filter is extremely dirty but isn't due to be replaced
yet). When you are first starting out in the field you will need to be
cautious in exercising your judgment by checking what you think against other
mechanics and/or field representatives/tech support. Try to understand
the rationale behind the judgment rather than just getting a yes or no answer
so that you can develop your own judgment. Be aware that some mechanics
will be ready and willing to share, while others will be too
insecure/grumpy/inept to be of much use. Do not allow them to discourage
you. Everyone was new once, and being inexperienced and asking questions
does not make you stupid (though some insecure mechanics pretend that is the
case). Being inexperienced and <u>not</u> asking questions makes you
unsafe. Judgment is a skill that can be developed, and the best way to do
so is to gain experience. This is also one area where your prior
mechanical (non-aviation) experience can be a big advantage. I call this
my "farmer sense" or some people would call it a gut feeling.
Sometimes you just know something isn't right even though the book might not
tell you anything about it (my best illustration of this was that I noticed on
an air conditioning compressor that the pulleys of the compressor and the motor
did not align and that was why the belt was wearing out prematurely).
Don't ignore your gut feeling. If you have a sense that something isn't
right, investigate further. Be willing bring other people into the
equation. Even if your intuition is wrong, it is an opportunity to hone
your judgment, and you may save someone's life someday. My current
employer has an actual in-house campaign telling people to "work with a
questioning attitude". The stakes are too high to risk ignoring
something significant.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> Ultimately I would recommend this
career to anyone who answered yes to the initial questions I posed . The number and quality of opportunities will
vary depending on the current economic conditions, but ultimately there will be
opportunity even as our industry transitions more and more to drone work vs.
piloted aircraft.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> I will briefly share my own
educational and career journey and earnings to give a little snapshot of what a
career in this industry might look like. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> I attended a
local community college in the Midwest. Some of my professors were
amazing, and some were simply cashing a paycheck. All of them were
willing (to varying degrees) to share what they knew with students who were
engaged. I also took general education classes (one per semester) in
order to finish with an associates' degree in Applied Science. I averaged
about 15 credits per semester, and I did little to no homework outside of class
time (save for my gen-Ed classes). It took me 3 years to finish up, and I
was pretty much able to get my education for free (thanks to the Pell Grant and
cheap tuition). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> While I was
in school, I took advantage of a couple of opportunities to volunteer with
different teachers while they were working on aircraft. I gained valuable
experience and, in one case, even a future work reference (just f.y.i. most
schools will not allow their teachers to provide work references – my reference
was no longer teaching). Volunteer opportunities are excellent
opportunities to gain real-world experience as well as build your future job
network. There are often clubs that work on restoring warbirds or other
aircraft. Ask around at your local airport if you aren't aware of any
such opportunities. The aviation world is a very small community in most areas
of the country. This brings me to an important lesson: Network, network,
network, and never ever burn any bridges in aviation. Even if you will
never work that job ever again, oftentimes people you work with will wind up
other places, and if you leave a bad impression, your reputation will spread
within the aviation community, and that is not something you want to contend
with if/when you are job-searching. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> I got my first job with a local
FBO (fixed base operator) in the Midwest, primarily doing corporate and general
aviation work. I heard about and was offered the job largely due to my
networking while I was in school. I started at around $12 an hour
(finished at basically the same range after 18 months)(a pay cut from my bus
driving job, but I knew I had to break into the business), but I did get
vacation and great benefits, including health insurance. The schedule was
great (weekdays 9-5), and we seldom had to work holidays or overtime.
Basically my only other option was to go to work for a small regional
airline where I would have made slightly more money and gotten travel benefits,
but given up my cushy schedule. It won't matter all that much how you
break into the industry, the important thing is simply that you do so. I
put in 18 months at that job, and it gave me a wide range of
experience/exposure as well as the opportunity to glean a lot of tribal
knowledge and confidence. I did a lot of grunt work (lubricating gear,
installing and removing interiors), but I always tried to pay attention when
people found/troubleshot problems. It was a great opportunity to learn
how to go about troubleshooting a wiring issue or what common problems were
with a PT6 engine. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> While I was working that job, I
got the opportunity to go to work at a aircraft sheet metal repair shop
part-time. I was paid around $15 an hour, and again had an opportunity to
broaden my experience and exposure.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> My next step was to cast a
broader geographical net because I knew that there just wasn't much for
aviation maintenance opportunity in my local area. I applied in several
different areas, including Alaska. I wound up accepting a job in Alaska
and moving from the Midwest up there (without any moving assistance outside of
them shipping my toolbox for me - very risky move had it not worked out).
It was a gamble on my part because I didn’t know much about my employer,
but it turned out to be a great move/fit for me. I started out around $22 an
hour up there, but quickly realized that I had taken a pay cut from the Midwest
because of the higher cost of living. On the plus side, I quickly moved
up the pay scale, and I finished making about $30 an hour just 2 years later.
This job gave me more specialty experience, and I also got the
opportunity to attend a factory Pratt & Whitney PT6 turbine engine school
(a widely used engine within the industry). I worked primarily on
turbo-props on evening and weekend shifts. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> My most recent step was a move
into the air medical arena. I started working for a system operating both
fixed wing aircraft (my foot in the door) and helicopters, primarily working a
standard daytime work schedule (subject to change based on inspections).
I took a slight hourly pay cut, but I also left Alaska and saw my cost of
living plummet. Part of the reason that I pursued air-medical is that I
am hopeful that it will be a long-term career.
Air medical has traditionally
been less cyclical than GA, Business Aviation, or Airlines because it is not
heavily dependent on disposable income.
There is no such thing as a secure job in aviation (outside of possibly
government) and even my industry of choice faces risks from industry regulation
that may significantly impact the number of jobs available. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> In summation,
I wouldn’t trade any of my experiences as an aircraft mechanic (though I would not want to repeat some
of them). I am grateful for the
opportunities that I have had to travel and see different places. 10 years into my aviation journey I still am
consistently challenged and stretched by my job.
There is something different every day. The return on my investment has been far beyond what I
expected when I started. </span></div>
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Jaredhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06281606873543691407noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200380911382924299.post-72326611027754601872013-08-02T23:15:00.001-04:002013-08-02T23:15:07.098-04:00I thought that this tool merited its own post<a href="http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-5-pc-reversible-offset-ratchet-screwdriver-set/p-00941469000P?prdNo=34&blockNo=70&blockType=G70" target="_blank">This tool</a> is one of the best values out there. It isn't one that you will use every day, but when you need it, you really need it. For $9 you can buy a couple. This tool is great on its own, but when you make tips for it, it really starts to shine. That ratcheting action isn't smooth or strong, but it is one really important thing - tiny.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF3oUTv_2Ai5deaffXvHYHIh3UAtBBgEx47F_73YmjGu9T1KwUNYjbPHaq6OVEUzadJrABLviFRJAgfVa9C7QvBt5xiXnmXoPQUdUCWkUST-1agQWDau0FQJ5wq3KwwZgr9GGMnBmITfs/s1600/Jared's+pics+572.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF3oUTv_2Ai5deaffXvHYHIh3UAtBBgEx47F_73YmjGu9T1KwUNYjbPHaq6OVEUzadJrABLviFRJAgfVa9C7QvBt5xiXnmXoPQUdUCWkUST-1agQWDau0FQJ5wq3KwwZgr9GGMnBmITfs/s320/Jared's+pics+572.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Low profile head fits even tight corners</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0PRwVk5UcQsyVsC_eOMB8Zs8aiHvxr4HA1ZikmszztKSN_muPxURuU__nU2cx2kWAW3bI1ffHbDmvSJZcggCXCpCbDJVqzDhMbGPUlz1oHNHtHDzmer0d9VoGdpooGuGaETsKDbMWG2w/s1600/Jared's+pics+574.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0PRwVk5UcQsyVsC_eOMB8Zs8aiHvxr4HA1ZikmszztKSN_muPxURuU__nU2cx2kWAW3bI1ffHbDmvSJZcggCXCpCbDJVqzDhMbGPUlz1oHNHtHDzmer0d9VoGdpooGuGaETsKDbMWG2w/s320/Jared's+pics+574.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I ground down an adapter to make a skinny narrow 1/4" ratchet</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4dRnVNrqzKmsKxajgs5KsEJWPGsJpFJAigOx3-KVY9VC6D6dLJ4FOYZ-fsWXwAG810ytyPXVVR-fB8OEWxeWS4_C9Zf5fdv0F0gSF6kBSSfwK7FLClBYEyzJofW94Fsrip3lLk3RPvYY/s1600/Jared's+pics+575.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4dRnVNrqzKmsKxajgs5KsEJWPGsJpFJAigOx3-KVY9VC6D6dLJ4FOYZ-fsWXwAG810ytyPXVVR-fB8OEWxeWS4_C9Zf5fdv0F0gSF6kBSSfwK7FLClBYEyzJofW94Fsrip3lLk3RPvYY/s320/Jared's+pics+575.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No comparison with the standard Craftsman ratcheting hex driver</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjteNHuzsEW5iYfqy9xNptcN_M0WKNGPlsH1MGnnqI9hlyzjHGVmQxy7COvAfsHYrmoq5b5xH8a_tbPh5ij_3e1D9VOW13ZS19wwrLwDPE7GuyykKkw8xx8VwZJbu7VVZfn9rz1FBOPue0/s1600/Jared's+pics+576.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjteNHuzsEW5iYfqy9xNptcN_M0WKNGPlsH1MGnnqI9hlyzjHGVmQxy7COvAfsHYrmoq5b5xH8a_tbPh5ij_3e1D9VOW13ZS19wwrLwDPE7GuyykKkw8xx8VwZJbu7VVZfn9rz1FBOPue0/s320/Jared's+pics+576.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It is little. I brazed a piece of coat hanger onto this tip so that it couldn't slip through the driver</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEX8JF6rA9mm7ckPicVEpshOxFZCBHcCj1CYExvSXZi2neKEUvBVCc0ab8eSlAIKUqg9Ra03bF6z0AmwsbKO284xRIHEz_J5vBKb1F6XGrE50baeM7f9hK7jnnZjGQ1G3FtTeEYE7cbDM/s1600/Jared's+pics+577.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEX8JF6rA9mm7ckPicVEpshOxFZCBHcCj1CYExvSXZi2neKEUvBVCc0ab8eSlAIKUqg9Ra03bF6z0AmwsbKO284xRIHEz_J5vBKb1F6XGrE50baeM7f9hK7jnnZjGQ1G3FtTeEYE7cbDM/s320/Jared's+pics+577.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXKFt3Ltoi4mmmK2fAMF9sfveD7QwktUMLujjuX_QhsBOJ7msgjadVG50p8cYXGROXxxims-JGORNmpK7LvG9XkEp93kJE5kCfJoBHi5mFlb_OkLP6Vrn_DpeoeKGj1qgMi3SdxPxMnAc/s1600/Jared's+pics+578.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXKFt3Ltoi4mmmK2fAMF9sfveD7QwktUMLujjuX_QhsBOJ7msgjadVG50p8cYXGROXxxims-JGORNmpK7LvG9XkEp93kJE5kCfJoBHi5mFlb_OkLP6Vrn_DpeoeKGj1qgMi3SdxPxMnAc/s320/Jared's+pics+578.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><h1 style="background-color: beige; background-image: none; background-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: no-repeat no-repeat; border: 0px; display: inline; float: none; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 19px; font-weight: 400; margin: 15px 0px 5px; outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; text-align: left; text-indent: -9000px; vertical-align: baseline;">
Craftsman 5 pc. Reversible Offset Ratchet Screwdriver Set</h1>
<span style="background-color: beige; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10px; text-align: left;"></span><span style="background-color: beige; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10px; text-align: left;"></span><small style="background-color: beige; background-image: none; border: 0px; color: #999999; display: block; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1em; margin: 5px 0px 3px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"> Item# 00941469000 | Model# 41469</small></td></tr>
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<br />Jaredhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06281606873543691407noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200380911382924299.post-82589760783858995422013-08-02T22:19:00.004-04:002015-01-19T06:09:04.976-05:00Skinny 1/4" DriveI just got the Micrometer out to check out my thinnest 1/4" drive tools. I did these measurements by mounting a socket and measuring the thickness of the head from the thickest part, and then subtracting the depth of the socket. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ5c5hDAMPD6FgUykvG4f8tXoWWA9mCfTXqE77HvMQ6vFqBYXXhgDCRxgbvDAIEaW2szVzvxIK_1urdE2TRWp0UNZD2dRiPoiKsl4eiNFdtIjZ5ixvV0jaXkqzQbLXDhNFWivGa9wJ6e4/s1600/IMG_6291.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ5c5hDAMPD6FgUykvG4f8tXoWWA9mCfTXqE77HvMQ6vFqBYXXhgDCRxgbvDAIEaW2szVzvxIK_1urdE2TRWp0UNZD2dRiPoiKsl4eiNFdtIjZ5ixvV0jaXkqzQbLXDhNFWivGa9wJ6e4/s320/IMG_6291.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: start;">My beloved Mac MR4C goes a svelte .295 inches.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_V0IGai7WDqwwhEH9iPCjoVpkOanHk0j8veMZ7ZiOJ96yP6UZmcNgvw5GHDE2omExIVDlA8nd8BH27NeVVWhDiZZsXy4PYmCoZiKrm9FA8U-Rc8ZwKbUoT-T-CWH0BVmjIL1V5VCtQtg/s1600/Jared's+pics+574.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_V0IGai7WDqwwhEH9iPCjoVpkOanHk0j8veMZ7ZiOJ96yP6UZmcNgvw5GHDE2omExIVDlA8nd8BH27NeVVWhDiZZsXy4PYmCoZiKrm9FA8U-Rc8ZwKbUoT-T-CWH0BVmjIL1V5VCtQtg/s320/Jared's+pics+574.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: start;">My Craftsman reversible screwdriver #41469 with a ground down 1/4" adaptor went .223 inches. Amazingly, that .07 inches has made the difference for me in a couple of spots.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: start;">My second favorite ratchet, the Snap-On THL72 is a beefy .460 inches thick, by contrast. I certainly don't hold that against it, but it does put things in perspective. It is twice as thick as the Craftsman!</span></td></tr>
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<br />Jaredhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06281606873543691407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200380911382924299.post-56168861373681043972013-08-02T21:51:00.002-04:002013-08-02T21:51:40.399-04:00Homemade Defuel CartI thought I would share this just because I think it is kind of cool. I was given the unenviable task of modernizing our avgas defueling cart. It consisted of a cart with two fifty gallon drums and a hand pump mounted on it. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I should have taken a "before" picture. Too busy working I guess.</td></tr>
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It was a real pain to use. It took two guys to refuel because you had to hold a filtering funnel in place and pump really slowly so that it could keep up. The bungholes for the barrels were always open, so we would keep rags stuffed in them to keep dirt out. There was a mesh finger screen on the pump, but the mesh was very coarse, and with fuel getting pumped both directions, it would just flush junk back and forth.. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is what the hangar looked like when I was working on it. Check out our two wheeled tug. </td></tr>
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I decided to use PVC because galvanized pipes would have been expensive and required unions all over the place, plus it would have been very time consuming to cut everything to length and then cut and thread it as well. </div>
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My objectives were to make this a sealed system (except for barrel venting) to keep out contaminates, to install a filter that would be bypassed when defueling but inline when refueling, hook hard lines to the two barrels on the cart, and leave an extra hose outlet for times when more than two barrels are needed. I also stripped and painted the cart itself and rattle canned the pvc black.</div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.007812);">My one regret to this point is that I didn't use pvc check valves for the filter bypass. It is a ball valve setup, which is easy to forget to change, and if you don't change it will bypass the filter when you are refueling.</span></div>
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If anyone wants to save some money on a defuel cart, build one of these. The filter body came from TSC and it really moves fuel well through the 3/4" line.</div>
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It took me almost two days from start to finish, but I accomplished all of the goals. Much thanks to Gary, Mac, and Zane because they had most of the ideas. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Jaredhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06281606873543691407noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200380911382924299.post-50426499603266223202013-08-02T21:16:00.000-04:002015-01-19T06:18:08.853-05:00What Tools should I buy while in School? One question that I really struggled with during my time in school is, what should I buy before I get out of school in order to cash in on the student discount? Obviously, there are as many answers to that question as there are people asking it, but I will offer some general guidelines that I hope will prove helpful to people. The three basic questions to ask before you buy a tool while in school are:<br />
1. Will this tool be essential to my future job functions?<br />
2. Will buying a quality tool add value by increased function or a better warranty?<br />
3. Is there a substantial discount for buying now?<br />
If the answer to any of the above questions is "no", or "I don't know", you should not be buying the tool until you have more information.<br />
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I have mentioned it before, but I feel it bears repeating, <b>DO YOUR RESEARCH</b>. It will save you a TON of money, and unless you have a much better gig than I do, that is a big consideration. Let's be honest, if you had more money than time you wouldn't be reading some random blog online.<br />
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You first need to <b>RESEARCH</b> the kind of tools that you are going to need. The best resource while you are in school is your teachers. Ask them who the local employers are, and what kind of work they do. Some shops are more sheet metal focused, while others may be strictly engine shops. Those two jobs will require very different sets of tools. Try to find out what your prospective employers focus on, especially the ones that you think you would like to work for. Ask your teachers what tools they recommend, and what a basic tool set should look like at your prospective employer. Many larger employers (which are typical landing spots for fresh A & P's) have recommended or required tool lists that are available online or for the asking. Try to find lists from employers, not schools.<br />
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The second step is to <b>RESEARCH</b> what kinds of tools from that list you really ought to have quality, and what you can get away with buying from Harbor Freight or Sears. Remember, the only advantage to buying tools while you are still in school is the discount for buying quality. The most common mistake that I see made is that people rush out and buy a giant tool set from one company. They start out way in debt and/or wind up replacing some of the inferior tools they had purchased. Once you work in the field you will realize that no single company makes the best of every single tool. Anyone who only buys one tool brand has either too much money on their hands or not enough common sense. I respect the "buy American" sentiment, but I personally support companies that make a good tool for a fair price. Mac makes the best 1/4" ratchet in the world, in my opinion. Snap-On makes the best angle wrenches by far and away. Irwin makes the best channel locks. I have written elsewhere about what tools should be bought quality in <a href="http://aviationmechanic.blogspot.com/2012/11/what-tool-truck-tools-are-worth-money.html" target="_blank">"What Tool Truck Tools are Worth the Money?"</a>, and I wrote about the ones that don't in <a href="http://aviationmechanic.blogspot.com/2013/06/tools-that-aircraft-mechanics-most.html" target="_blank">"Tools that aircraft mechanics most commonly overpay for"</a>. If you buy one big tool set you are investing a lot of money in tools that won't necessarily help you make more money. If you build a toolset slowly while you are working, it will allow you to find out what is the best and most efficient way to use your money. The second common mistake that people make with school discounts is purchasing giant toolboxes right out of the gate before they are making money in the field. I addressed that issue in<a href="http://aviationmechanic.blogspot.com/2012/11/what-toolbox-should-i-get.html" target="_blank"> "What toolbox should I buy?"</a><br />
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The third step is to <b>RESEARCH</b> what tools are the best. One good example is the Snap-On four way wrench set. I borrowed this set I don't know how many times, and I would say that a majority of aircraft mechanics have one (seven of eight in my shop). It is $255 on the Snap-On website, but only $133 through the Snap-On tech program. Another good example would be the Mac MR4C. I have sung its praises elsewhere, but with a student discount price of $26, it is priced competitively with even the Craftsman cheapo ratchets. My third endorsement is the Mac BWS7B ratcheting screwdriver set. These things are awesome for tight spots. They are fine toothed and the action is tight, so it is a lot less frustrating than the Craftsman cheapo ones. Highly recommend this set.<br />
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The fourth step is to <b>RESEARCH </b>how good the discount is. Mac offers a straight-up 50% discount on almost everything. Matco has a similar discount. Snap-On varies depending on the tool. Some are near 50% off, while others are nearer to 10% off. Some tools can be purchased on Ebay, Craiglist, or at Pawn shops with significant savings, especially big ticket items like torque wrenches. Most of the time, usage does not affect functionality (screwdrivers and wire cutters are the exceptions that come to mind) or warranty, so buying used is a good option.<br />
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Ultimately, I would advise people against buying a lot of tools just because they have the school discount. Buy good quality tools that have a wide range of functionality, like ratchets. Other than that, I would advise most people to wait until they are in the field. I cannot stress enough how important it is to buy based on the best possible information.Jaredhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06281606873543691407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200380911382924299.post-38534641863745861422013-07-25T08:38:00.002-04:002013-07-25T08:58:31.248-04:00Boeing<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boeing Factory Floor Tour!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">This was some pretty cool training! Got to tour Boeing's factory in Seattle. It's worth a visit if you are out there.</span><br />
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Jaredhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06281606873543691407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200380911382924299.post-17883380557966714962013-07-25T02:38:00.001-04:002013-07-25T14:58:33.272-04:00SubscribeHey all,<br />
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Someone asked how they could get email notifications for posts, so I spent about two hours figuring out how to set it up. I think I finally got it. You can enter your email in the box above that says "follow by email." You have to pass the spy bot test (not always a given with those crazy letter boxes), and confirm by clicking a link from your inbox, and voila, an update every six months or so when I get time to post cause I'm so busy doing, you know, other stuff like this.Jaredhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06281606873543691407noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200380911382924299.post-59695571698918128062013-06-07T12:29:00.003-04:002013-08-02T20:13:08.731-04:00Tools that aircraft mechanics most commonly overpay for<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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Today I just wanted to write a note about some of tools that mechanics commonly pay too much for. I think that the most common mistake that aircraft mechanics make in starting out is buying a big tool set from one of the tool trucks. I understand buying a big set on the school discount, particularly if you don't have many tools to start with, but I think that doing so is a big waste of money. You will discover that many tools are not worth shelling out extra to get top-line brands in. First off, the big sets will inevitably include tools that you will seldom, if ever, use. Secondly, even some of the tools that you use will not be appreciably different than a Craftsman or Harbor Freight knock off that costs, in most cases, less than half what you paid. It is very difficult to buy tools without knowing what is worthwhile and what you will need. I advise you to work in your field with the minimal toolset if it is at all possible, and then add to your collection as you see the need and save the money. I would definitely advise you to save as much money as you can in these areas and save your pennies to spend on tools with moving parts (where the tool truck warranty is of greatest value). This is a still evolving list, and I will be posting pictures later, but I have been sitting on this since January, so I figured it was time to publish it.</div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00390625);">Here is my list of tools that aircraft mechanics most commonly overpay for. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00390625);">1. </span>Sockets - For an aircraft mechanic using almost exclusively 1/4" drive tools, tool truck sockets simply offer little or no advantage to the cheaper ones. I have five complete 1/4" drive sets at work - two complete Gearwrench six-point shallow sets (one modified to be an extra shallow set), one Craftsman twelve point shallow, one Craftsman twelve point deep well, and one Craftsman six point deep well. (The double on the deep well is definitely overkill, but I had to use up the slots in the Mechanic's time saver, right?) I have used the Matco, Snap-On, and Mac tools, and I can say definitively, that in two years of maintenance my sockets have done everything the same as the tool truck sockets, and I have never broken a single one. I have Craftsman and SK 3/8" & 1/2" drive sockets, and I probably only use them a couple of times a week. I have a definite preference for American made tools, but you could definitely get away with the Harbor Freight sockets in these sizes. I also have a Stanley 3/4" drive 5/8"-2 3/8" set that I use for axle nuts, and it works perfectly. I don't even own any 3/4" drive tools because I always use an adaptor down to at least a 1/2" drive ratchet, but most commonly I adapt down to a 1/4" drive torque wrench, so quality is not a concern at all with these larger sizes. You are simply going to be after the metal.</div>
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2. 3/8" and 1/2" drive tools - I mentioned above that I only use my 3/8" and 1/2" drive stuff maybe once or twice a week. Don't waste your money to buy a $70-80 ratchet in these drive sizes. Whatever you have already will work, and if you don't have one, Craftsman sells American made ones for $10-15, and they will serve perfectly. The big tool sets always include this, even though we seldom use it in aviation. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMPJIRtZhyphenhyphendRpTk7lC8PcOGD8NbqpK2HirTQ5Ryg9FXwYgHKTyMnlsh1xublLsIBUzD-_10qCNoGrLsOCKN5Qr42cW3pyUfvNgOO55qALRzhWpoHkxfNQGGBpRUiQIqhMmF0SsgCtGcsM/s1600/P3130055.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMPJIRtZhyphenhyphendRpTk7lC8PcOGD8NbqpK2HirTQ5Ryg9FXwYgHKTyMnlsh1xublLsIBUzD-_10qCNoGrLsOCKN5Qr42cW3pyUfvNgOO55qALRzhWpoHkxfNQGGBpRUiQIqhMmF0SsgCtGcsM/s1600/P3130055.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>3. Most pliers - In two years of maintenance in a ten man shop, I have never seen anyone take a warranty on a set of pliers. The reality is that we in aviation maintenance see very few things that are frozen or rusted outside of screws, so we do not have to abuse our tools like people who work on cars or trucks. The vast majority of tool truck pliers are copies of other pliers, or have been copied well by Craftsman or others. There are exceptions to this rule, most notably wire cutters and safety wire pliers. Nobody really makes a good knock-off pair of safety wire pliers in particular. Some of the long -handled wire cutters I have not been able to find anywhere besides on the tool truck, and a good set of wire cutters are probably worth the money because of the frustration and time they will save.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzOMLJ349x3VuekedaGH0_df7Rp62ZSLXOXfIgvNG3TUNpO942YYn5IGBIDy_kH61MClLHNmTRFNEAQXXxxUgW0VGnGag5LqNOnmmGHtISXEGvmdDPAkQEcyhT1-4v2d22phgMOfMbUsU/s1600/P3130057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzOMLJ349x3VuekedaGH0_df7Rp62ZSLXOXfIgvNG3TUNpO942YYn5IGBIDy_kH61MClLHNmTRFNEAQXXxxUgW0VGnGag5LqNOnmmGHtISXEGvmdDPAkQEcyhT1-4v2d22phgMOfMbUsU/s1600/P3130057.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAVf5fE8SVu2zIGWdPsE50XyB4uQMv4dcKrKuBllbjOUinbywp1wDHAHKyOlSraL9jB_-uRS9515UcPp3vknZIpFgSjMBDcRWSHJNo6LAvMvdkDZGhpv1NknuY4rSZV74rsDIqpgXNorg/s1600/P3130040.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAVf5fE8SVu2zIGWdPsE50XyB4uQMv4dcKrKuBllbjOUinbywp1wDHAHKyOlSraL9jB_-uRS9515UcPp3vknZIpFgSjMBDcRWSHJNo6LAvMvdkDZGhpv1NknuY4rSZV74rsDIqpgXNorg/s1600/P3130040.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>4. Picks - The tool truck ones just offer 0% added functionality, and Harbor Freight and Craftsman both warrantied the only ones that I have broken (both through abuse). I could buy ten sets from Harbor Freight for what they want for one tool truck set.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA03n5gCpUxHCieKjSKRy_PsZ1H4ef6CTvQVqfR-yprlyQ5a9KE_yuDVshPdG3kVJJKK9duGPpMBQY2-a2Iu17CVRfs14yyW2Ifw_Pb0Ol3gLTfKbY4duH1DgPkswgJU9uu7VFwrTSaGI/s1600/P3130049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_1QmnAgwdZTmJhf5aeUgncmW2WgeQUPYTJt3QbgIJhBzCCdjizolMRhUKPhnuWUyReY9ealGpV5KZ2lTeCXN9Twrnpll4zxCLPor4uglRADHcFRvg8b41sP7LVe7FJP46gVofQLCXuNw/s1600/P3130048.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_1QmnAgwdZTmJhf5aeUgncmW2WgeQUPYTJt3QbgIJhBzCCdjizolMRhUKPhnuWUyReY9ealGpV5KZ2lTeCXN9Twrnpll4zxCLPor4uglRADHcFRvg8b41sP7LVe7FJP46gVofQLCXuNw/s1600/P3130048.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guess which ones are tool truck?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA03n5gCpUxHCieKjSKRy_PsZ1H4ef6CTvQVqfR-yprlyQ5a9KE_yuDVshPdG3kVJJKK9duGPpMBQY2-a2Iu17CVRfs14yyW2Ifw_Pb0Ol3gLTfKbY4duH1DgPkswgJU9uu7VFwrTSaGI/s1600/P3130049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA03n5gCpUxHCieKjSKRy_PsZ1H4ef6CTvQVqfR-yprlyQ5a9KE_yuDVshPdG3kVJJKK9duGPpMBQY2-a2Iu17CVRfs14yyW2Ifw_Pb0Ol3gLTfKbY4duH1DgPkswgJU9uu7VFwrTSaGI/s1600/P3130049.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bet you couldn't tell</td></tr>
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<div style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; font-family: Noteworthy; font-size: 18px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 24px; orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijp_1equOrbdpaKwgiN0kdqCHhlNbv1UoLGU8UBpfeECXmxph5p4M3geM46cuKofJmksphIcIYYfg6y0A3BwzD-XtzeBto6ke6Bu3QMlDmcbDCqWfBrLeDYI-Ss3zEY_RFjmiV_wUPqPE/s1600/P3130051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijp_1equOrbdpaKwgiN0kdqCHhlNbv1UoLGU8UBpfeECXmxph5p4M3geM46cuKofJmksphIcIYYfg6y0A3BwzD-XtzeBto6ke6Bu3QMlDmcbDCqWfBrLeDYI-Ss3zEY_RFjmiV_wUPqPE/s1600/P3130051.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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5. Punches - Again, these may be worth the extra money for an auto mechanic, but i just have found that as long as you don't abuse them, the cheap punches will last just as long as the good ones. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS-oZ5MF397Xx6DMumJK1ICiIU_SjStT9vlHdQxDyZVhvuMnX231yzhxFFIsdv9VSADkklqrafqAJ2UJcKK2sQjCuXYrO_5RjHI8uuzdm2gYlIgIatQgU3XuFIS_9W9q3dVYLESKPw7ZU/s1600/P3130045.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS-oZ5MF397Xx6DMumJK1ICiIU_SjStT9vlHdQxDyZVhvuMnX231yzhxFFIsdv9VSADkklqrafqAJ2UJcKK2sQjCuXYrO_5RjHI8uuzdm2gYlIgIatQgU3XuFIS_9W9q3dVYLESKPw7ZU/s1600/P3130045.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a>6. Hammers - Pretty self explanatory. We don't spend all day with one in our hand, so you don't really need to invest in an expensive sledge hammer. The one possible exception is a dead-blow hammer, but I have never used a cheap to be able to definitively say.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNedE-l5hiNX9dfHgXejonl2mJESJDr6lQ0JyH-PSJzd59VLgZe6SGqf7HiJl_d01CmOrGnTdZiDaAee_CA7y5g0-AvpWcIXnOAu26PAIB3G_PuyGMCz0P2ZYHKA75EkkkcRKoRgb5c4I/s1600/P3130041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNedE-l5hiNX9dfHgXejonl2mJESJDr6lQ0JyH-PSJzd59VLgZe6SGqf7HiJl_d01CmOrGnTdZiDaAee_CA7y5g0-AvpWcIXnOAu26PAIB3G_PuyGMCz0P2ZYHKA75EkkkcRKoRgb5c4I/s1600/P3130041.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
7. Files - I have not found any good reason whatsoever to spend extra for brand-name files (more comfortable handle?). They all are very capable of cutting aluminum, and that is pretty much what we use them for. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQMc9y6FGtt5pOWY4pRizoSZDr_Q-eR0mpkb8pWfI5ZAv3MCNW_C-IZLx_aoDx1_tzUiJtUNo5IXBtFTSdArPrskccy96dVZPXiCR3-E0zO3_MKB2hvVRxe0i1VXYiDvy03N6FEw2DHZs/s1600/P3130053.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQMc9y6FGtt5pOWY4pRizoSZDr_Q-eR0mpkb8pWfI5ZAv3MCNW_C-IZLx_aoDx1_tzUiJtUNo5IXBtFTSdArPrskccy96dVZPXiCR3-E0zO3_MKB2hvVRxe0i1VXYiDvy03N6FEw2DHZs/s1600/P3130053.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a>8. Mirrors - There is no justification for a tool truck markup here. You have to buy replacement mirrors anyway. </div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00390625);">9. Magnets - The markup on these things is horrific. I bought a couple of no name extending magnets from Sears for a dollar each, and they are great. One source for really strong rare earth magnets is used computer hard drives. One of these saved my rear when I dropped a tool down into a rudder with no access at the bottom. I was able to move the tool from the outside and slide it up to a point where I could reach it with a magnet from the top. They also make awesome magnets when attached to a coat hanger. You can also buy rare earth magnets on ebay for a little bit of nothing.</span></div>
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<!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F-iHGGXhySXbM%2FUfxGp-m6TAI%2FAAAAAAAAAX0%2F7P_slzuU9kg%2Fs1600%2FP3130049.JPG&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA03n5gCpUxHCieKjSKRy_PsZ1H4ef6CTvQVqfR-yprlyQ5a9KE_yuDVshPdG3kVJJKK9duGPpMBQY2-a2Iu17CVRfs14yyW2Ifw_Pb0Ol3gLTfKbY4duH1DgPkswgJU9uu7VFwrTSaGI/s1600/P3130049.JPG" -->Jaredhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06281606873543691407noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200380911382924299.post-13200574639135173072012-12-05T23:43:00.001-05:002013-07-25T10:25:24.001-04:001/4" Ratchet reviews<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
I just snapped pictures of all of the 1/4" ratchets that we have at work, and I will just post some of my recommendations for what works well and what does not.</div>
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Here are the ones that I personally own:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-YjZKXYfVEB0oootYhba9Rzz1nHuKI13zFYhw7Uv4O6M7oREfYM6ekm6fJWxrJ2Yj2B8WXvR0y1Eldu3XbrMcnxh1hsZXo6dObcS4AGfDXnm0LiCn4su_Gs_P8iNMSZc4b2F0sc92vWo/s1600/Jared's+pics+547.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-YjZKXYfVEB0oootYhba9Rzz1nHuKI13zFYhw7Uv4O6M7oREfYM6ekm6fJWxrJ2Yj2B8WXvR0y1Eldu3XbrMcnxh1hsZXo6dObcS4AGfDXnm0LiCn4su_Gs_P8iNMSZc4b2F0sc92vWo/s1600/Jared's+pics+547.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mac Tools MR4C<br />
My personal favorite. I love the compact size and pushbutton socket release (a huge plus when trying to manuever with a long extension attached), as well as the 72 tooth design. This is the smallest commonly available ratchet that I have found. It is really handy for tight spots under the glareshields/dashboards. Got to love the lifetime guarantee at this price! Honestly, this is the ratchet I use 75%+ of the time. You could probably get away with this and one other bigger ratchet (for more leverage).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG8-GXkl_s7mK43l6xHo_aa-JcCWJMx43eZIUROgK1WAjWGPJeQHT8QvA1gLsQwZCIWvYpcERoh37Q_CmbXJXR-IdlfRFYWBt1gm4SX_ip51RtIAlLn7dhF0GG7GPr0j7u4i_H50u2z3Y/s1600/Jared's+pics+548.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG8-GXkl_s7mK43l6xHo_aa-JcCWJMx43eZIUROgK1WAjWGPJeQHT8QvA1gLsQwZCIWvYpcERoh37Q_CmbXJXR-IdlfRFYWBt1gm4SX_ip51RtIAlLn7dhF0GG7GPr0j7u4i_H50u2z3Y/s1600/Jared's+pics+548.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Proto Challenger 1060-1<br />
Found this one in a trash can. It is a good backup ratchet, but seldom leaves my toolbox, mainly because the 32 teeth necessitate a big swing and have too much slop.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIzxBq9jsRgAM6RMzW71RQ-4H0vpvFSVrWaCqU3nlOGX2Vw-uIR590xntzYZBE9XHOMTKaf6wPPc12NVawR6znMUOkQrdQOUXV5_dMudUVGBQS94CMTxQNTGSSn8GsWTJwACXr5l1bSSI/s1600/Jared's+pics+549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIzxBq9jsRgAM6RMzW71RQ-4H0vpvFSVrWaCqU3nlOGX2Vw-uIR590xntzYZBE9XHOMTKaf6wPPc12NVawR6znMUOkQrdQOUXV5_dMudUVGBQS94CMTxQNTGSSn8GsWTJwACXr5l1bSSI/s1600/Jared's+pics+549.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Harbor Freight thumb wheel ratchet<br />
I used this for the first time ever this week (after a year plus). The Mac one is much more compact, and I think that they have a fine tooth one. This one is very large (probably could turn it down on a lathe, but not worth the time), and 32 teethed, so it has a lot of slop, but for a $5 ratchet, it isn't that bad.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjPDIhy36HBFe0k9oDCJarQ-zSjO0U6STkHcL8_yrj_nsWuebTWSONs-HeA13K-iERUoISyyIqJAuvCFQfWXU0XjkDRjPFJ4VQnrSqdXdnWjCJLXub3M85NwKayQv8gcoGT8ZgrA7Php0/s1600/Jared's+pics+552.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjPDIhy36HBFe0k9oDCJarQ-zSjO0U6STkHcL8_yrj_nsWuebTWSONs-HeA13K-iERUoISyyIqJAuvCFQfWXU0XjkDRjPFJ4VQnrSqdXdnWjCJLXub3M85NwKayQv8gcoGT8ZgrA7Php0/s1600/Jared's+pics+552.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mac Tools MR18<br />
This is a cool ratchet, but not very useful for me to this point. It has an extremely compact 72 tooth head, and the indexible part is cool, but it is very expensive for no more than I use it, and I have never really needed it.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5HEkFZcEuuaUwoU-IaB5z6as_EJBDU8FYWTk5Zb7XVRbcVXU7c-78OOJouTUpUGMjtWsK8Vmo9Jb4a4wftYYR8VhpCo3FDtXggetdJWSs2Zg0ZlM-7Bp1JAKAQyKLwuzAYBP4xmJoVTc/s1600/Jared's+pics+555.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5HEkFZcEuuaUwoU-IaB5z6as_EJBDU8FYWTk5Zb7XVRbcVXU7c-78OOJouTUpUGMjtWsK8Vmo9Jb4a4wftYYR8VhpCo3FDtXggetdJWSs2Zg0ZlM-7Bp1JAKAQyKLwuzAYBP4xmJoVTc/s1600/Jared's+pics+555.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snap-on THL72<br />
My second favorite ratchet. This is what I grab when I will need some extra torque. I have used this very roughly, and it has never so much as hiccuped. I love the 72 teeth, the sealed head, the marked reverse button, and of course, the warranty. I am not a big fan of the rubber handle (hard to clean, always nasty), and this is a pretty bulky ratchet overall, plus expensive. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcGImp_rk5RdIe2Kh8gC4jhzU3cl7OWIhbxbb5TBycqsd7rNfz7TO3c6yjz0ZdybqNkmIIzbhDR3tcagZGAOnxOTrtM7S8jbniJQloXMJ0tqompquFjE1OCBlUSD76Vm-3qg73XQq5R3Q/s1600/Jared%2527s+pics+553.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcGImp_rk5RdIe2Kh8gC4jhzU3cl7OWIhbxbb5TBycqsd7rNfz7TO3c6yjz0ZdybqNkmIIzbhDR3tcagZGAOnxOTrtM7S8jbniJQloXMJ0tqompquFjE1OCBlUSD76Vm-3qg73XQq5R3Q/s1600/Jared%2527s+pics+553.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gearwrench 81224<br />
This is probably my third most favorite ratchet. I would highly recommend this and the Mac MR4C as a top two set of ratchets. 99% of the work I do could be done conveniently with those two ratchets. I really like this ratchet, especially at the value. I got it and an identical 3/8" drive for $38 at Sears, and they are guaranteed forever. This is basically a very good knock-off of the the Snap-on Swivel head, down to the colors, shape, and size. It is 72 tooth, with very tight tolerances. I personally do not care for the rubber handle, but that is a personal thing, and this is a relatively bulky ratchet, but that is the design.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7TFJ8iJJpZTnePz7ulojkqWwMDdNWHIDm8JIKyJOW5ew5r92q0_wWPWGeL2moQbUZfGuc1MPp6Ydy7sqbEahDmMjdxnwq609EiqDlBNqGreXjJjDZFLhdEhUBJ_TN_mG8nx_Z6bh11ak/s1600/PB150049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7TFJ8iJJpZTnePz7ulojkqWwMDdNWHIDm8JIKyJOW5ew5r92q0_wWPWGeL2moQbUZfGuc1MPp6Ydy7sqbEahDmMjdxnwq609EiqDlBNqGreXjJjDZFLhdEhUBJ_TN_mG8nx_Z6bh11ak/s1600/PB150049.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Craftsman 44807<br />
This is my "at home" ratchet, and that is all that I would recommend it for. It isn't terrible, but the reverse switch has a nasty habit of reversing itself. I haven't broken mine, but the 3/8" version I have broken 3 times with light use, and it is terrible to use because of the self-reverse tendency. This is also a very bulky ratchet and it has 32 very sloppy teeth. It is fine for home use or starting out, but you will want to upgrade it for sure. <br />
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This is the end of the ratchets that I personally own, so keep in mind that the other reviews are based on very limited borrowing and usage.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmHHmh0kN4BQceKoJXQoa4BBT1abAp9ZHu4_VnRzt0_jMPpidjIg4M7JTz3RCM_oNPc9hf-f3Df-0iQPzrGmrbBWHeJOVj9eY9Tltey0NKKyLFOXEYUGp_LbI-ya6YRwBZrd5Ot2mkP4E/s1600/PB140007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmHHmh0kN4BQceKoJXQoa4BBT1abAp9ZHu4_VnRzt0_jMPpidjIg4M7JTz3RCM_oNPc9hf-f3Df-0iQPzrGmrbBWHeJOVj9eY9Tltey0NKKyLFOXEYUGp_LbI-ya6YRwBZrd5Ot2mkP4E/s1600/PB140007.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Craftsman 43187<br />
This is a pretty vintage Craftsman (c.1980s), so it is a very good tool from my experience with it. I especially love the knurled section on the head. It is great for spinning things off by hand. I also am a fan of the pushbutton release. This has 32 teeth, but it does seem tighter than the bottom end Craftsman. I am not a big fan of the reverse switch, but overall, this is not a bad ratchet.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkFagHUjp3XjHJ7xtKpWnEkjeVfd9uvGoIRrUP-z1pGQAb4rK4uYfOX1yjtjoqD6W9lTKQc7ESERGgwPio0Kh8TqBeel3qO977x7277c_6ae_ibFNEweTzhXAEWfGFCEEMIJ_9TIyoMW0/s1600/PB140002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkFagHUjp3XjHJ7xtKpWnEkjeVfd9uvGoIRrUP-z1pGQAb4rK4uYfOX1yjtjoqD6W9lTKQc7ESERGgwPio0Kh8TqBeel3qO977x7277c_6ae_ibFNEweTzhXAEWfGFCEEMIJ_9TIyoMW0/s1600/PB140002.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plomb 4751<br />
Hands down, this is the coolest ratchet in the shop. It is a 66 year old co-workers, and he got it from his grandfather who was a machinist. This ratchet dates from the 1940s most likely, and it is by far the smallest ratchet I have ever seen. It is not heavy duty, but I have borrowed it several times to get into spots where even the MR4C would not go. It is a 32 tooth, but the action is very smooth and tight. I would love to find one, but they go for the $50-$70 range on ebay, which is a little steep for a used ratchet that you can't get parts for anymore.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ3dDzYcJN_PUwEpBlzPTV5svAC9POa1D8jiRWsW6BgiuEe0t2mDBcWPgD-wQwReLd0n9Z3JAN-538OYBUShYtgelXQ3JZ2r7AjG3n0Uz5HpkP3UqtmEsbtineZPR3TM3NT6Hd_r4EYTk/s1600/PB140009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ3dDzYcJN_PUwEpBlzPTV5svAC9POa1D8jiRWsW6BgiuEe0t2mDBcWPgD-wQwReLd0n9Z3JAN-538OYBUShYtgelXQ3JZ2r7AjG3n0Uz5HpkP3UqtmEsbtineZPR3TM3NT6Hd_r4EYTk/s1600/PB140009.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snap-on TM739<br />
This is a good older ratchet. All of the newer Snap-on are 72 or 80 teeth, which is nice, but these are a nice compact ratchet. I prefer the Mac MR4C because it is smaller and has the pushbutton release and toggle reverse switch, but this is a good possible substitute as a compact ratchet.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj70BF-WZu_gvWGzgUFGG-NQbP3E5WQ6AHhYLsMrNhZg5M8_4cNsQD2hYDbWV1k0IwUJ_-06AqmBQoQkJ7G7VtUFtLHYSIlwp5YkaGh8wvR04yXoKOzkHwvfghzYrjSX42Zd-z8YgWi_as/s1600/PB140012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj70BF-WZu_gvWGzgUFGG-NQbP3E5WQ6AHhYLsMrNhZg5M8_4cNsQD2hYDbWV1k0IwUJ_-06AqmBQoQkJ7G7VtUFtLHYSIlwp5YkaGh8wvR04yXoKOzkHwvfghzYrjSX42Zd-z8YgWi_as/s1600/PB140012.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ace Professional<br />
This is a decent older ratchet. 32 tooth with jumbo size head, otherwise not much to see here. This would be a good backup ratchet.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1QENulCrvv7w9CPKn6Ikw5Qh2IzveTG9ZBA-kHwYRcKpdq3IKDSipREFdsYYnIZsEwgGVIod0uhVklX_PBDlVmUQQG12iHgl2hB0unk6CsQMOINnstH21bEAw9yTEuY2FQ771Xa6urhM/s1600/PB140014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1QENulCrvv7w9CPKn6Ikw5Qh2IzveTG9ZBA-kHwYRcKpdq3IKDSipREFdsYYnIZsEwgGVIod0uhVklX_PBDlVmUQQG12iHgl2hB0unk6CsQMOINnstH21bEAw9yTEuY2FQ771Xa6urhM/s1600/PB140014.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snap-on TB60MP<br />
The Snap-on indexible is not as good as the Mac version. Bigger and bulkier means tougher to fit in the spots where you might need an indexible ratchet. Otherwise a good build quality Snap-on.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqNGzGNkrJNnK84deM1zWSMSDmTWpHvfTAbyWHxsIkRsIoP9JJzAt3qBffiOvBD26Ky2Lx1jdf2HVJhaxIEyBUdbVkOo7C86je9wYUWV6lyyWahuiAVXFEy70l424F6qEjFF6AiRuTMVk/s1600/PB140017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqNGzGNkrJNnK84deM1zWSMSDmTWpHvfTAbyWHxsIkRsIoP9JJzAt3qBffiOvBD26Ky2Lx1jdf2HVJhaxIEyBUdbVkOo7C86je9wYUWV6lyyWahuiAVXFEy70l424F6qEjFF6AiRuTMVk/s1600/PB140017.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unidentified Stubby flex-head<br />
This is a really cheap ratchet, but the flex point being below the head is unique. I personally have never needed one like this and it is pretty bulky and cheap.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz-ZsvqC1z4fIbOK9aKL_bYYHzLQUNgXDIjtvGfubUCcQVb5TiVPOcaitp9tCM2z16sEL1vkj-mhwLoKocIX-1Mq2P_aY3lETnhiQuon1y5SsO8MfdSxsX7lwJNDyIugJxxZxZX8gj5rY/s1600/PB140018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz-ZsvqC1z4fIbOK9aKL_bYYHzLQUNgXDIjtvGfubUCcQVb5TiVPOcaitp9tCM2z16sEL1vkj-mhwLoKocIX-1Mq2P_aY3lETnhiQuon1y5SsO8MfdSxsX7lwJNDyIugJxxZxZX8gj5rY/s1600/PB140018.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kobalt 23737<br />
This is basically identical to the Gearwrench reviewed earlier. I suspect they are built by same company and then molded with a different handle. Pricing is also similar, so it mostly comes down to which one you would rather go to for warranty, Sears or Lowes.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvLXVnp_Dv4Ln-nItQxwh7pcC_SHYczokvOXjaYPpyJGrf7HkDXMSkfAt7VkVXb4QwLxQIyijj6pprVbxsAh5_AVV85HeggW3oEaufDGNZzV4dKvBRskIBEwqVf0rEq99SFPpOEw0k2uk/s1600/PB140020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvLXVnp_Dv4Ln-nItQxwh7pcC_SHYczokvOXjaYPpyJGrf7HkDXMSkfAt7VkVXb4QwLxQIyijj6pprVbxsAh5_AVV85HeggW3oEaufDGNZzV4dKvBRskIBEwqVf0rEq99SFPpOEw0k2uk/s1600/PB140020.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snap-on TM831<br />
Another good Snap-on, with the different pivot point flex head. Good ratchets, but very expensive. I think the Gearwrench or Kobalt offers comparable performance at 1/3 the price.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5X0R_KaCiSsGibpELttQQwHhvSfe4YL_2qOsyhYKQn2mx6z_1FIKnyvE0XjzjajDbUyu8d52X-fROuTaDXoqTxkgpM0XBpMcoWgBsOStgBBLVLwf8mj3hf93T94KvYRDrBmxnz-ttJzQ/s1600/PB140022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5X0R_KaCiSsGibpELttQQwHhvSfe4YL_2qOsyhYKQn2mx6z_1FIKnyvE0XjzjajDbUyu8d52X-fROuTaDXoqTxkgpM0XBpMcoWgBsOStgBBLVLwf8mj3hf93T94KvYRDrBmxnz-ttJzQ/s1600/PB140022.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pittsburgh Pro from Harbor Freight<br />
This is actually a surprising nice ratchet. It has a nice smooth 72 tooth action, and a relatively compact head. I love the reverse switch and the pushbutton release. Hard to go wrong at less than $10, but you don't really need it if you are going to invest in a good quality brand name ratchet. This doesn't offer any extra functionality.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPdTigjjpyS6iNkzDyUoKLr_LN3GuebUJzaeM8BtGsLz0xE5h-LBRzmaUtOJH3gQBNJM6JRmoDSKjrFyi0ADjxVv8xiL6uK0sC8lHP0lCjWkdOH969Rsasrt3nABwVVMpX_R13aFH5FHw/s1600/PB150038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPdTigjjpyS6iNkzDyUoKLr_LN3GuebUJzaeM8BtGsLz0xE5h-LBRzmaUtOJH3gQBNJM6JRmoDSKjrFyi0ADjxVv8xiL6uK0sC8lHP0lCjWkdOH969Rsasrt3nABwVVMpX_R13aFH5FHw/s1600/PB150038.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">E-Z Red SR14 8G Ratcheting Handle<br />
Probably the second coolest ratchet in the shop. It has the ratcheting handle, but what really sells this ratchet is the compact size. This thing is as compact as a regular ratchet, but it can save a LOT of time in certain situations where you need it. It is a fine tooth ratchet besides. I probably will try to add this to my collection at some point. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglufcPhVyogplJ0-jgg3XO_OVpiXh7NKNEY0dop3ZLzlUI3H0TWT1z4Tf3t2_J_jREcltas_mpAqVicnCvxyzOE3KGQrc0V5tkYxmqINqhpwJPqLoJZzGJViSFD2UQDZJFs_16gDmJX78/s1600/PB150040.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglufcPhVyogplJ0-jgg3XO_OVpiXh7NKNEY0dop3ZLzlUI3H0TWT1z4Tf3t2_J_jREcltas_mpAqVicnCvxyzOE3KGQrc0V5tkYxmqINqhpwJPqLoJZzGJViSFD2UQDZJFs_16gDmJX78/s1600/PB150040.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stanley 89-961 Ratcheting Handle<br />
The Mac guy sells and warranties this off the truck, but it is expensive and really bulky, so there will be spots that it does not reach.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTsuyHTCM_qies7cvXMRXNHfPw8PshUz1TPZ_-mYVVZtbQ5IqRJAlYDxU-dzy1tDnwgUSDcUveXJbRAfDS0jxztFI13Djpu3ZGJ13D42iX_H-exBsCcUHeD95SxBezp79gg7Hfo2oc6Bk/s1600/PB150043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTsuyHTCM_qies7cvXMRXNHfPw8PshUz1TPZ_-mYVVZtbQ5IqRJAlYDxU-dzy1tDnwgUSDcUveXJbRAfDS0jxztFI13Djpu3ZGJ13D42iX_H-exBsCcUHeD95SxBezp79gg7Hfo2oc6Bk/s1600/PB150043.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ratcheting Handle from Harbor Freight<br />
This is an ok budget option for a ratcheting handle ratchet, but the head on this is massive, and the action is pretty rough (on this one, anyway). The handle on the bottom is pretty nifty though.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghTcKLdzXH1e2KWKRR7wujfX5kM7vUfjWeWLq-VdGZgyB2GWSnayxrAlhI0tbGX_u9F7MDPQ8u1KkPFy_thhyphenhyphenqEhLcB-K-ILBIP5h4FR8KP8q8gtkNTZYyWu-6P1Bh-tm5kGegGJgkfvY/s1600/PB150044.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghTcKLdzXH1e2KWKRR7wujfX5kM7vUfjWeWLq-VdGZgyB2GWSnayxrAlhI0tbGX_u9F7MDPQ8u1KkPFy_thhyphenhyphenqEhLcB-K-ILBIP5h4FR8KP8q8gtkNTZYyWu-6P1Bh-tm5kGegGJgkfvY/s1600/PB150044.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pittsburgh Pro by Harbor Freight Insulated Ratchet<br />
This is a surprisingly good ratchet. It is great for pulling battery posts. I actually really like the 72 tooth action on it. It feels really tight, and at $8, this is a really good buy if you will use it.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf-sLwhGmskKdh_MOUwD8h3H3bE2-I5x5PMu1KUVZZsTuF3eD6BZT_PdM-I1RxKq229e9-bXW1V9NxZHciA1tQg2Pc46TcyGCCSkRNwFMtE7IFCxrtE8s8Z1T54WlAjyMpn2GdGlgYH3w/s1600/PB150045.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf-sLwhGmskKdh_MOUwD8h3H3bE2-I5x5PMu1KUVZZsTuF3eD6BZT_PdM-I1RxKq229e9-bXW1V9NxZHciA1tQg2Pc46TcyGCCSkRNwFMtE7IFCxrtE8s8Z1T54WlAjyMpn2GdGlgYH3w/s1600/PB150045.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mac MR5<br />
This is a pretty good little older Mac ratchet. It is about the same price as an MR4C though, and there is really no comparison between those two ratchets.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaJNB2lO5pEwFMl5xtlaJ5qJk8TSe6_qJfA1TXbpISKa2zvzU1uVFZ98VFzuJbcRJ6gTcKTL0SeNFxyoVhDDW_OpUcU0HTHZcP7wZMLPfmArgkaTPJmI5gGyD1sXkxTz1rFHmZMHzO4pw/s1600/PB150047.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaJNB2lO5pEwFMl5xtlaJ5qJk8TSe6_qJfA1TXbpISKa2zvzU1uVFZ98VFzuJbcRJ6gTcKTL0SeNFxyoVhDDW_OpUcU0HTHZcP7wZMLPfmArgkaTPJmI5gGyD1sXkxTz1rFHmZMHzO4pw/s1600/PB150047.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mac MR4FC<br />
This is my favorite ratchet redesigned as a flex head. It is everything I indicated earlier, but you give up a little bit of size for the addition of the flex head. I still think that I would go with the straight ratchet and the Gearwrench as my flex, but this one would make me think twice. I don't really like using the flex-head when I don't need it though, so that is what tips the scale for me.</td></tr>
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<br />Jaredhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06281606873543691407noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200380911382924299.post-81119147314986022682012-11-28T23:12:00.000-05:002015-01-19T06:34:09.673-05:00What tool truck tools are worth the money?<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0976563); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(191, 107, 82, 0.496094); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); font-family: Noteworthy; font-size: 18px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 24px;">
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I am of the opinion that it is not worthwhile to buy only or all tool truck tools, but I wanted to offer my opinion on what tools are worth the money you will pay for a tool truck (mostly Mac, Matco, or Snap-On) tool. There are a lot of tools that we as aircraft mechanics can get by without, but sometimes it is worth plunking down for the good tools. I am convinced that the only good reason to spend more money on a tool is that it allows you to do a job better or faster. In other words, only buy tools that help you to make money. I believe that many tools are purchased because of peer pressure or because that is what the older mechanics have. It seems like a lot of guys want to start out with the same toolset as a guy who has been working 25 years. They seem to forget that he probably took at least 10 years to build up that tool collection. The availability of credit from the tool trucks and company sponsored tool credit programs have made it easy for guys to rack up five figures plus in tool debt. All that being said, there are a lot of times when a tool truck tool can save your bacon, or shave hours off of a certain job. I am going to point out a few of the tools that I think are very worthwhile for a mechanic to own.</div>
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The general rule of thumb for what to spend money on is this: if it is a hand tool with moving parts or that will be used in spots with clearance issues, the tool truck tools are likely worth the money. If neither of those two criterion exist, it probably isn't. Frequency of use is another important criterion. If you will only use a certain tool a couple of times a year, it probably won't pay to invest a lot of money into it. The final factor is that sometimes innovative tools are only available through the tool trucks (meaning the Chinese haven't figured out how to copy it yet).</div>
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I just wanted to highlight a few of the tools that I believe are worth spending in order to get quality. (Disclaimer: I have bought exactly three tools off the truck. I use either Ebay or Craigslist to buy spendy tools.) Our shop is serviced only by the Mac and Snap-on trucks, and the Snap-on Customer service is lacking, so my tool collection reflects that. Some shops have a good Matco or SK or Cornwell guys, so that is a consideration when you are buying tools. If your shop gets good customer service and prompt warranty from one or more of those companies, that can make one tool stand out a little more than the others.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3KnurT973D17kV6KBrYs66e5jynUFG9gzkvqizLhjaAexQ945dInTSGsbJmJlh9yoD48LOuHfStHlRN9f2eUJFmDEhCJBuktjCMnofupvGa44Gy0oIA0e5CeQopKJPBj5hyphenhyphennL9RVzY1Y/s1600/Jared's+pics+547.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3KnurT973D17kV6KBrYs66e5jynUFG9gzkvqizLhjaAexQ945dInTSGsbJmJlh9yoD48LOuHfStHlRN9f2eUJFmDEhCJBuktjCMnofupvGa44Gy0oIA0e5CeQopKJPBj5hyphenhyphennL9RVzY1Y/s1600/Jared's+pics+547.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a> As an aircraft mechanic, one of your most used tool will be your 1/4" drive ratchet. I have a decent collection of them and I have borrowed a lot more. I can tell you that hands down my favorite ratchet is the Mac tools MR4C. Nobody else that I have found makes one that is as small, low profile, fine toothed, and tough. This is the most common ratchet in our shop. There are six of them floating around, with very good reason. If you can buy it with the student discount it is only around $26, but even at $52, this is a must have tool. There are certainly other good options, but I am partial to the 72 tooth design. It seems to have a smoother action, and it can be invaluable in tight areas.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Uki_nYBbZHAAjdtUkkMr3P9Yyu5qJVEohp9hMihCQBlbcv8ncSbSrn-fPqcxCQTdynVpmR2PbW-fROtac87YGAQPZtJ6uuUYXa0blHVM6ZRctCteO5V19m_G1Guw7igOqj4q2GooWaw/s1600/PB290013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Uki_nYBbZHAAjdtUkkMr3P9Yyu5qJVEohp9hMihCQBlbcv8ncSbSrn-fPqcxCQTdynVpmR2PbW-fROtac87YGAQPZtJ6uuUYXa0blHVM6ZRctCteO5V19m_G1Guw7igOqj4q2GooWaw/s1600/PB290013.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snap-On Driver</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gearwrench Driver</td></tr>
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Another of your most used tools will likely be your ratcheting screwdriver. I highly recommend springing for a fine toothed ratcheting screwdriver. It will save you a lot of frustration and anguish in the long run. The Snap-On screwdriver undoubtedly sets the bar in this category. It has a really smooth action, and the hard plastic handle even stands up to skydrol (nothing else that I know of does). I personally rock the Gearwrench set that I picked up for $17 on sale at Sears. It does everything the Snap-On does, just not quite as well. The reversing switch is counter-intuitive (moves opposite the direction you want to go), the handle is rubber (gets nasty and needs wiped with alcohol weekly), and the butt cap likes to come off at awkward times, but at less than 1/3 the cost of the Snap-On, I can deal with the issues and it was worth it to me. </div>
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Another tool that is worth spending for is a good set of 1/4" drive flex sockets. The cheap ones do not last or work as well, and most of them are six point. You will want twelve point in case you work on turbines. The Mac set (which I own) is good quality and very low profile, but sometimes it will not work for cylinder base nuts on reciprocating engines because the socket is not deep enough, so several guys have the Snap-on 7/16" and 1/2" because they are longer and deeper. In my experience, however, the low clearance that the Mac set provides is more important. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEispuKX3F6vGebF1nMBfbzCC95qQvBova7RUVIk88Cf6e7WhQETVFsFvLV4Dew3dqdAv9oaMRn2UmfZFtNUAMM6N3MRLgsR6l2wK3jedR6y6Z3hkEP3LLJuXhVw_99BSE-CiVYGr_GmjHg/s1600/PB290001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEispuKX3F6vGebF1nMBfbzCC95qQvBova7RUVIk88Cf6e7WhQETVFsFvLV4Dew3dqdAv9oaMRn2UmfZFtNUAMM6N3MRLgsR6l2wK3jedR6y6Z3hkEP3LLJuXhVw_99BSE-CiVYGr_GmjHg/s1600/PB290001.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top to Bottom: Harbor Freight, Mac, Snap-On</td></tr>
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I have to confess that I don't actually own a set, but the Snap-On 4-way Angle Wrenches are the bomb. I am working on finding a bargain because I borrow them all of the time (update: I found a set of Caterpillar 3/8-7/8 angle wrenches for $74 on ebay. They are made by Snap-On for Caterpillar, but the plating on them is not as good a quality, not a big deal to me considering I saved almost $300!). The 3/8"-3/4" set runs $245, or roughly $35 a wrench! Pretty salty for my taste. These don't have any moving parts, but they are awesome for a several reasons. They are made from better steel than the cheap ones, so they will not spread when you are putting a lot of torque on a nut. The better steel also allows the head of the wrench to be smaller. It is common to see the cheap wrenches (i.e. the Harbor Freight set which I own) have a lot more steel around the jaw, which can be an issue in areas with tight clearances.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiorTeBfMXf4UyuehsuzXsb6HdpJJdbtGKIhMPO5o2mMrMHtNU0elZBSI7ElZ3Zy-Wsc-b_1qaxYbDHAkXzx0dcRQFdeAVytNhqbq7IjFb1oZGIUZeQCsVavdzyKho0tGTxcYgN1KfuvVY/s1600/PB290006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiorTeBfMXf4UyuehsuzXsb6HdpJJdbtGKIhMPO5o2mMrMHtNU0elZBSI7ElZ3Zy-Wsc-b_1qaxYbDHAkXzx0dcRQFdeAVytNhqbq7IjFb1oZGIUZeQCsVavdzyKho0tGTxcYgN1KfuvVY/s1600/PB290006.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mac and Snap-On wrenches with 15 degree end (Mac) aligned<br />
with 30 degree end (Snap-On)</td></tr>
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The thing that really sets the Snap-On set apart from any other in my experience is the angle of the head. A normal wrench has a 15 degree offset on the open end, and almost all angle wrenches have one 15 degree end and one 60 degree end. The Snap-On angle wrench is set up with a 30 degree offset on one end and a 60 degree offset on the other. That really makes a difference when you are only able to move a nut a quarter turn at a time. Word on the street is that Snap-On has a patent on that design, but a company called V-8 tools does sell a 30/60 degree wrench, but again, it seems like their design replaces good steel with bulk, hindering clearance. I think that you could probably grind them down without affecting strength enough to matter to an A&P, but they probably aren't a very good option for heavy equipment mechanics. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWSwenyuSPz8rSPKC2HbGlmbQ33qr4QjGP7Iy8ZxiWOcdc8CE_SB5jkXCpkk0zIm25JyuSuj_cRTV9TBsGw8M13qoASnMESkM0EtP9QuwWwHWMxg3qy4Blc4nH295PqYNel_2JpOCVkXg/s1600/PC040029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWSwenyuSPz8rSPKC2HbGlmbQ33qr4QjGP7Iy8ZxiWOcdc8CE_SB5jkXCpkk0zIm25JyuSuj_cRTV9TBsGw8M13qoASnMESkM0EtP9QuwWwHWMxg3qy4Blc4nH295PqYNel_2JpOCVkXg/s1600/PC040029.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Top to bottom: New Snap-On, Caterpillar, old Snap-On</td></tr>
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Caterpillar also offers a 30/60 angle wrench, but it is made for them by Snap-On, and I don't know where you can purchase it new. It looks to be identical, just a little less expensive and without the convenient warranty service from the tool truck. Those are probably not going to be a big issue for A&P's because we seldom break wrenches.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguJgQi5K0nksgQp1L7uzvwffcjT_LbzuOQcBRjpNDicclOswrp_97Im7zSNu_RwT9VCRgmtg8SorzdTADRWlC1LaBFXgqVmufRnF2sQw1KuCvg14dUzQ4thwhgDpWtk2LKX1v1xwI98Y4/s1600/PC040023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguJgQi5K0nksgQp1L7uzvwffcjT_LbzuOQcBRjpNDicclOswrp_97Im7zSNu_RwT9VCRgmtg8SorzdTADRWlC1LaBFXgqVmufRnF2sQw1KuCvg14dUzQ4thwhgDpWtk2LKX1v1xwI98Y4/s1600/PC040023.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The newer Snap-On and Caterpillar wrenches are identical,<br />
but the older Snap-On is slightly smaller headed. I am <br />
guessing that they thickened it up to save themselves<br />
some money on warranties.</td></tr>
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These are just a few of the most important tools that will cost you to skimp on. There are many others, but I think that these are the most important. Watch for my breakdown of what tools are not worth buying off the truck. </div>
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Jaredhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06281606873543691407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200380911382924299.post-90481562272560477382012-11-17T10:53:00.003-05:002012-11-17T12:59:21.119-05:00What toolbox should I get?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWGHN-3az2Y5IUDLp9y-9w1KDTs_rjj07JewStvSrYoQMdncRXA3Uuim6m_LCcyj6zNVcaNoPp4RMLdT88G5xSPAx8lRhfjkKH2HgIp4gUj0vtGJT8TrU89L-ocxnJyG7WthTnOhUhpf4/s1600/PB150082.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWGHN-3az2Y5IUDLp9y-9w1KDTs_rjj07JewStvSrYoQMdncRXA3Uuim6m_LCcyj6zNVcaNoPp4RMLdT88G5xSPAx8lRhfjkKH2HgIp4gUj0vtGJT8TrU89L-ocxnJyG7WthTnOhUhpf4/s320/PB150082.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mac MB1700 Box with side boxes - the resident land yacht</td></tr>
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This will probably be your single most expensive tool purchase. That makes it critical that you make an informed decision about what you will purchase. I will again try to limit my comments to the areas in which I have some expertise, I.E. aviation maintenance and home workshop. My focus is not so much on the brand of toolbox that you buy, but what to look for in a box. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unidentified Mac Box</td></tr>
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Aviation maintenance has a number of distinctives in the tools that are required. First off, we use almost exclusively 1/4" drive tools, and the vast majority of wrenches we use are between 5/16"-3/4". What does that mean for buying a toolbox? It is generally better to have more smaller drawers than to have larger, deeper, drawers and full-width top drawers often preferred by auto and diesel mechanics. It also is not as critical for us to have the weight-bearing capacity that a diesel mechanic might need for his bigger and heavier tools. I definitely think that aircraft mechanics would get along better with cheaper tool boxes than some other mechanic careers.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mac MB1700 Box with top and side box and side locker</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giant toolbox sample drawer = lots of junk, little tools that get used.</td></tr>
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Another important consideration for A&P mechanics is that we often move toolboxes around and under airplanes. I highly recommend skipping the top box. Only one mechanic in our shop has a top box, and I cannot even begin to tell you how many times we have to move his box or take the long way around because it is too tall to fit underneath a wing or tail. Skipping the top box means that buying a larger bottom box is a higher priority. Most of the hangars that I have been in have plenty of room for moving around, and going through doors is also usually not an issue like in some auto shops, so deep and long boxes are usually preferred in aviation. If you don't fill your box with a whole bunch of old parts and duplicate tools, you will be shocked at how much it will hold. The only guys who cannot fit into a 56" box have drawers that look like this. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snap-On Classic 96 Box - Has not moved in two years</td></tr>
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I also believe very strongly in having the top of my box as a workbench. It is very convenient, and in my opinion only requires a modicum of effort to keep tools and junk off of the top of the box. If you top your box with old kitchen countertop, butcher block or whatever, you can beat on, paint, lubricate and wrench to your heart's content without having to worry about your box. I have also seen vises mounted to the top of the box, and that seems to work very well. The only issue I have heard with that is that other people are always using your box. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mac Tech 1000 Box</td></tr>
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I personally recommend buying a 56" long bottom box. I would not really recommend starting out with a triple bank box. In my experience, boxes bigger than 56" almost never move because they are such a hassle to roll around the shop. If you find out that you need more space, you can always buy side boxes. My own box is a 25 year old Snap-On KRL-1000b, and it is 53" long x 29" deep x 45" tall. I like a lot of things about my box, but it isn't perfect either. I bought mine used off of Craigslist for $1100 (the MAC guy offered me $3000 for it on trade, I told him no thanks). The guy had all the keys, and the original receipt! One caveat with that is, if you buy used, have your tool guy run the serial number to make sure that your seller has it paid off, and that the box hasn't been reported stolen. There are a lot of excellent deals on Craigslist, if you have the cash. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Craftsman Pro Box</td></tr>
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If you do not have the cash to buy a big box right away, I would highly recommend buying a small, cheap, box that you wouldn't mind using at home in your own shop. You can consistently find Craftsman boxes in the $150-$250 range on craigslist in my area, some including tools, and they make great starter and home boxes. As you make money and buy more tools, you can upgrade to a bigger box. You will also have the advantage of time to evaluate what others have and how well it works. The more on-the-job experience that you have before you make this decision, the more likely you will be satisfied with your final decision. School cannot substitute for real experience.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Snap-On KRL-1000 Box</td></tr>
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I will start off critiquing my own box. What I like about it:</div>
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Lifetime warranty (shouldn't really need)</div>
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Heavy duty drawer slides (Not as important for A&Ps)</div>
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The height (45" is 6" taller than most boxes, better for use as a workbench for me as a 6' guy)</div>
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The drawer setup (lots of smaller ones with big ones at the bottom)</div>
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Heavy duty casters</div>
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The 27" deep drawers are great for space, but probably not for you if you have short arms. </div>
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It is still easy to move.</div>
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Large bottom drawer is perfectly sized for hanging file folders.</div>
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First and last box I will ever buy.</div>
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What I don't like about it:</div>
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The drawer detents (the Snap-On man replaced all of them under warranty, but they just don't work that well, either too stiff, or they have broken again)</div>
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Hard to find side box for a 25 year old box</div>
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Back of 27" drawers can be a long reach</div>
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That is about it.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unidentified Waterloo Box</td></tr>
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I cannot comment with very much authority on the cheaper boxes because almost everything we have at work is from Mac, Snap-On, and Matco. Unless you are going for a really cheap starter box that you will take home and replace eventually, you will for sure want ball bearing drawers. I actually like the Craftsman grip-latch, and Snap-On slide latch as well. Some of the new boxes have adjustable detents, but how much weight a drawer has in it really affects how the detents work, vs. the drawer latches seem unaffected by weight. I have friends that use and like the Kobalt boxes from Lowes, Harbor Freight boxes, and Craftsman boxes as well. I haven't used them enough to tell what the compromises are with those boxes, and whether or not you can live with them. For me personally, I think a decent box is probably worth it if you are using it to make money. Everyone will offer you an opinion, but don't let yourself get bullied into spending $6000 just for a name. I don't think that you will regret buying any mid-level toolbox, and I don't think that the top of the line boxes from MAC, Snap-On, or Matco really add much value for us as A&P's because most of what they offer is a higher payload, which isn't a big consideration for our tool collection. They are also heavier, which means that they will be more difficult to roll. </div>
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My experience with all the toolboxes at work has been pretty well positive. We happen to have a Mac man who is very good, so Mac has wound up as the preferred toolbox and tool set. Matco is largely ignored because we don't have a Matco tool truck. </div>
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In summation, I think that any mid-level toolbox will serve well, because we as A&P's aren't in our toolboxes as much as auto and diesel mechanics, and our tools are lighter. The more expensive toolboxes don't, in my opinion, add much value for us as mechanics. Big bottom boxes with lots of drawers and no top box are the best option for aviation. </div>
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I would love to hear from you guys what box or boxes you have or had, and what your experience with each was. I am especially curious what works well for auto and diesel mechanics.</div>
Jaredhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06281606873543691407noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200380911382924299.post-45556165789844851022012-11-14T22:33:00.002-05:002013-07-25T10:26:20.687-04:00What tools are the best?<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0976563); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(191, 107, 82, 0.496094); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); font-family: Noteworthy; font-size: 18px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 24px;">I will limit my comments to my area of expertise, Aviation Maintenance. The first thing I will tell you right off the bat is that it is a terrible idea to buy a huge kit from some tool company. You always wind up with tools that you will not need, and no company makes the best of everything. Not only that, but debt is a terrible idea in a career like ours, especially if you don't have a job where you use those tools to make money yet.</span><br />
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You will need at least a set of basic hand tools to begin with. Hopefully your shop has a required/recommended tool list for you. My recommendation is that you don't buy anything but the necessities until you have at least a month or two on the job to query coworkers and witness firsthand what works and what doesn't. I have seen fellow A&P students make a ridiculous number of terrible purchases from the tool truck just because they are afraid of losing the discount after they leave school. If you absolutely MUST buy tools before you are out of school, DO YOUR HOMEWORK. It will save you hundreds, if not thousands of dollars. Talk to your teachers and see what they recommend, google search forums, etc. Your teachers will probably be some of your best resources. I have yet to meet one who doesn't like to talk about his tool collection. </div>
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As you start your job, you will find that some tools are really only worth buying if they are Mac, Snap-on, Matco, etc, while others can be Harbor Freight, Craftsman, Kobalt, etc, and it will make no difference at all, except in your own pocketbook. If you are really into status symbols, go ahead and buy all Snap-on or whatever, but if you like to keep your money, DO YOUR HOMEWORK! Even if you feel like you need to buy brand-name for a particular tool, Ebay and Craigslist can be your best friends, especially if you are looking for a big ticket item like a torque wrench or a big set of something. One thing that I have noticed on Ebay is that Snap-on especially has the name recognition, and it is tough to find bargains, but many of the better tool makers such as Cornwell, Proto Professional, S&K, etc. do not get as much traffic, and it is easier to score deals. I bought a 7/16-1 1/4 combination wrench set that is Proto professional and every bit as good as Snap-on for $40 including shipping!! You do give up a little bit in tool truck service, but they are really good tools for a lot less than retail. Craigslist is a little bit more hit and miss, but again, it can be good for big ticket items. It takes a lot of patience to decide what you need, and then purchase it secondhand, but it will save you tons of money. </div>
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I have been a mechanic for a year and a half, and I still keep a post-it notepad in my drawer to write down tools that I want to buy. I would highly recommend this practice. The rule of thumb that you will see everywhere is that if you borrow something 2-3 times, you need to buy it. Hopefully you will be in a shop where your coworkers are patient enough to loan you tools while you slowly build up your collection. I cannot stress enough how foolish it is to get way in debt when you are beginning your career. Skip the pop and chips on break, drive a clunker, do what you have to do to start saving money so that you can buy your tools with cash. You will thank yourself in a couple of years. Ask for tools or gift cards for your birthday and Christmas presents. I am fortunate to have a VERY understanding wife who allowed me to register at Sears for a whole bunch of tools. I wound up with $400+ in tools and gift cards!! (Gotta marry right for that one!) </div>
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All that said, starting with the basics, I will try to walk through different categories of tools and make recommendations in each one. </div>
Jaredhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06281606873543691407noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200380911382924299.post-32743091131183937452012-11-13T20:10:00.001-05:002013-08-02T23:37:42.675-04:00Tool Box Shadowing with foam<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0976563); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(191, 107, 82, 0.496094); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: Noteworthy; font-size: 18px; line-height: 24px;">
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<b> I have seen a few threads that do a decent job explaining how to shadow a toolbox yourself. I just wanted to put it all together with pictures of my project. If you are reading this, then you are in the minority of mechanics. You are probably a little OCD about your tools, and it probably drives you crazy when people "borrow" your tools because they cannot find their own. It takes a certain type of person to put the time and money into shadow their toolbox.</b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Toolbox Foam</td></tr>
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<b> The first step to shadowing your toolbox is to decide if it is practical for you. In my own experience, this is a very critical step that is often ignored in a fever of "look at how cool that toolbox in the Snap-On catalog looks". Simply put, looks are not the best reason to shadow your toolbox. It is a good enough reason for some, but the real reason for shadowing is tool accountability. I am an aircraft mechanic, and for obvious reasons, it is vitally important that we do not leave tools in the aircraft. A secondary consideration is that many of the tools that I buy from the aforementioned Snap-On catalog are very expensive, and I do not want to lose any of them. It also seems to help people to remember to return the tools that they so often "borrow" from my toolbox. Those are the upsides to shadowing. You do give some things up with shadowing - flexibility and space. It is a pain if you need to add or subtract from your tool collection (though I have ideas to help with that), and shadowing requires a lot more space and is less flexible than an open toolbox. I do not have every pair of pliers I own in my box. They simply will not fit in a single drawer of a normal size box. Shadowing also requires either a small monetary commitment and a large time commitment, or a huge monetary commitment and a small time commitment. I probably have about 20 hours in the four drawers that I have done, but it is worth it to me. I believe that aviation maintenance lends itself most readily to shadowing because we have a relatively small, relatively stable tool collection. Auto mechanics have many more specialty tools that they have to add to their collection, and that makes it difficult to keep things fitted. I cannot really speak for other jobs (diesel mechanics, maintenance, etc.), but for home use I think that this is only worthwhile if you are really fastidious. I personally have only shadowed the parts of my work toolbox that I am worried about losing something from because I am highly unlikely to misplace things like my sledge hammer and pry bar (yep, I have them and use them a surprising amount), and I am still adding some specialty tools to my collection.</b></div>
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<b> If you still believe that shadowing is for you, it is time to get down to business. Shadowing a toolbox yourself is a very laborious process, but it is hundreds if not thousands of dollars cheaper than having it done for you. If you are like me, you would rather spend that money on tools that you can use to make money. If you are considering shadowing, keep in mind that it will only help you to find things if you keep your tools put away. I always pile my tools on top of my box throughout the day, and then take ten minutes to put them all away at the end of the day. I have found that this method allows me to keep tools handy and easily found. Having a place for everything really helps things to get put back where they belong.</b></div>
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<b> There are a lot of retail options out there for foam, but most of them run $30+ a drawer. Message boards and forums drew my attention to a <a href="http://www.walmart.com/ip/Ozark-Trial-Camping-Pad-Blue/16783660" target="_blank">Camping Pad</a> that Wal-Mart sells for $7.47, and it should do at least two drawers for the bargain basement price of roughly $4 a drawer!</b><br />
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<b>I promise that I am not a salesman for Ozark trail, but this stuff is strong, lightweight, durable, and best of all, cheap! I have had my main drawers done for a year now, and this foam has held up beautifully (as my pictures will show)! You aviation guys probably know this, and if you are careful enough to shadow you probably wipe down all your tools before you put them away, but make sure you wipe off any skydrol your tools might have. I have not tested this foam to see how it responds, but something tells me that skydrol will eat it just like it does your skin. Ditto for MEK and other strong solvents. The one other downside of this foam is that it only comes in 20"X 72" sheets, so it is pretty likely that you will have to use two pieces in some drawers (mine are 27" deep).</b></div>
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<b> The first thing that you need to do after you purchase your foam and drag it home is unroll it and flatten it out. This part is frustrating, and you can skip it, but it is kind of a pain if you do not give it at least a week or so to flatten.</b></div>
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<b>After you get your foam flattened out, take the drawer liner out of the drawer you want to shadow and lay it on top of your foam pad. Use a yardstick or some kind of a straight-edge as a guide and a SHARP utility blade, and cut the drawer shape out of the pad.</b></div>
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<b> The next step is to lay out your drawers how you would like them. I put the tools where I wanted and used them from that location for a week or so, just to make sure that it would work for me. Common sense should be your guide here, put your most commonly used tools in front (this is especially important for guys like me who have the 27" deep drawers), but not under the front lip either. You will probably want to leave 1/2" around the outside of the tools and beside the edges of your drawers. You can cut it closer, but it is difficult to keep the foam stuck down if you do. This step forced me to consider what tools I need, and I took all of the tools that I had not used back home. A lot of people have duplicates or triplicates that they do not need, or else their drawers look like this. </b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixLTKXCze6zixD0mqa1HIhR9XvksBB32O8x4f7Zh7ZgHNn-FEAbBGgWbj9d9SL4CpJwzEpCtYSttcfnO03ZvNaDUlJI6W4V9ZlhqPadQHODrxZ8roLMiqKxMPG4PXZL07OaPv3S-Xs0HU/s1600/PB150081.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixLTKXCze6zixD0mqa1HIhR9XvksBB32O8x4f7Zh7ZgHNn-FEAbBGgWbj9d9SL4CpJwzEpCtYSttcfnO03ZvNaDUlJI6W4V9ZlhqPadQHODrxZ8roLMiqKxMPG4PXZL07OaPv3S-Xs0HU/s320/PB150081.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<b> It is also important to consider at this point whether or not you will need to leave room for future expansion. It is very frustrating to have a drawer just how you would like it, and then find that you will need another tool that will require you to re-cut the whole drawer! I cannot stress too much how important it is for you to take your time and think through this process! </b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioETzKDV-fzNgDz97oG4hUSB6OA-5PRm5mZOcddx3DZVSDzM94MhYsgE8W0aSbcBIziegX2Hxom5uPOz_ECQx6xMzVqeOXmikvQq0eM3x7c7cRHa68PVgtWV_0qIvAzk_3AR1OAoSWBIQ/s1600/PB130030.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioETzKDV-fzNgDz97oG4hUSB6OA-5PRm5mZOcddx3DZVSDzM94MhYsgE8W0aSbcBIziegX2Hxom5uPOz_ECQx6xMzVqeOXmikvQq0eM3x7c7cRHa68PVgtWV_0qIvAzk_3AR1OAoSWBIQ/s320/PB130030.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1u2hM2YP2LSYpF_JIhoPzqD6srWHlqE_GI-6xayHHzBWKXhJAu6WBCM5ON5doRUfddFM537oPADNKgaQtemwb5fC2CwBBn0-KAvGJe3CHL_Eee1cO4bNqlNlNkg3fECWG8qPmkZSnUqI/s1600/Jared%2527s+pics+566.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1u2hM2YP2LSYpF_JIhoPzqD6srWHlqE_GI-6xayHHzBWKXhJAu6WBCM5ON5doRUfddFM537oPADNKgaQtemwb5fC2CwBBn0-KAvGJe3CHL_Eee1cO4bNqlNlNkg3fECWG8qPmkZSnUqI/s320/Jared%2527s+pics+566.JPG" width="320" /></a><b> One thing that has worked beautifully for me and saved me a ton of time was buying <a href="http://www.handsontools.com/Mechanics-Time-Savers-1480-Magnetic-38-Drive-Metric-Socket-Holder-14-Hole-Neon-Blue_p_4719.html" target="_blank">Mechanic's Time Saver Socket Holders</a>. </b><b>I simply cut around the base of the holders, and they look great and still allow me to see if I have sockets missing and also to take my complete set of sockets if I need to go out on the line. My 3/8 drive deep well sockets are just barely able to stand up in the drawer, so make sure that you have the</b><b> clearance you need! I also had a <a href="http://www.handsontools.com/Mechanics-Time-Saver-LAS25-13-Slot-14-Drive-Lock-A-Socket-Socket-Holder_p_4728.html" target="_blank">Lock A Socket Rail</a>, but it was too tall for the deep well sockets, so I use it for the shallow well sockets. I have a cheap metal rail for my 3/8" universal set, and it works pretty well as well.</b><br />
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<b> </b><b> One other note I wanted to share was that you need to be careful how you store spring loaded pliers if you choose to store them with the handle compressed. If you do not leave enough foam to carry some strength, your handles may compress the slots for neighboring pliers when they are removed. (Voice of experience speaking here). </b><br />
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<b> Locate all of the tools where you want them and then remove the foam and tools from the drawer and lay them out on a flat surface. </b></div>
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<b>Now that you have the drawer all laid out, you can begin to cut. Here is the best way that I have found thus far:</b></div>
<b>Use needle nose vise grips to grab a the smallest exacto knife blade that you can find. I prefer the vise grips because of their low profile and the ease of changing blades and blade angle. OSHA required note, do not be dumb and cut yourself, and if you do, please do not sue me for telling you how to do this. </b><br />
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<b>Using the exacto knife and a slight sawing motion to cut the exact outline of the tool PART WAY through the foam. The smaller the exacto knife blade you use, the more fine your corners will be. I work my way through the drawer, removing each tool after I cut around it. </b></div>
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<b>After you have cut out all of the shapes in a drawer, go back through and bend the foam slightly to expose the cuts that you have already made,</b></div>
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<b>and use a blade to finish out the cuts you have already made. I like to make my cuts on a slight inward angle in order to firmly grip the tool in the foam. This works especially well on rounded tools like screwdrivers and ratchet handles, etc. </b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFoiHO0PxVhXeys9AUjJvZg9mq2CDkBZT17013IlVc1PiLpG2c_6N_dWQwqo5uYTkp-kOTtN7kqMzUKldmnDUcEutKhVZW1leDQiAYvSyv7S7pbiz6r_X81VI1weZ_4HjNmY3kWwBI9LA/s1600/PB130024.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFoiHO0PxVhXeys9AUjJvZg9mq2CDkBZT17013IlVc1PiLpG2c_6N_dWQwqo5uYTkp-kOTtN7kqMzUKldmnDUcEutKhVZW1leDQiAYvSyv7S7pbiz6r_X81VI1weZ_4HjNmY3kWwBI9LA/s320/PB130024.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCjZuIjO4PeFbkl1RQDOfzmnqkehArq01eOLE1XSblVBvkTtP9ekGyj601ztEG2EMKOflc7bepyLqS59HGH7Vr0KBb95dG0csVPoRbZOS15Dv6en42MoQfPL5zx7nDlcgas5VzlXdtL_0/s1600/PB150080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
<b>I would hold onto the shapes you have cut out for at least a little bit, because if you want to make a change, the piece you have cut out will fit perfectly back where it was cut from and you cannot even tell that it was removed. I am holding onto my cutouts just in case I want to change things around. You can also cut them in half and use them to make shallower slots for smaller tools. </b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCjZuIjO4PeFbkl1RQDOfzmnqkehArq01eOLE1XSblVBvkTtP9ekGyj601ztEG2EMKOflc7bepyLqS59HGH7Vr0KBb95dG0csVPoRbZOS15Dv6en42MoQfPL5zx7nDlcgas5VzlXdtL_0/s1600/PB150080.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCjZuIjO4PeFbkl1RQDOfzmnqkehArq01eOLE1XSblVBvkTtP9ekGyj601ztEG2EMKOflc7bepyLqS59HGH7Vr0KBb95dG0csVPoRbZOS15Dv6en42MoQfPL5zx7nDlcgas5VzlXdtL_0/s320/PB150080.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<b>I also used a 13/16 socket to cut out finger grips around the handles of some of my smaller pliers. </b><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Eqko8e1fIa86sQ6ItcHKXjrn0V7DL9N5Jqpz9V9REU8JvPEpa_gM4D6hskIMC0qr9LDlZwcbHFsUHlwJJUDHEWNdUTNDI1zRzXLpLXYMD1q-KbJWCqLxdWFgjR4NOwOiK1zASSXc8zM/s1600/PB130027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Eqko8e1fIa86sQ6ItcHKXjrn0V7DL9N5Jqpz9V9REU8JvPEpa_gM4D6hskIMC0qr9LDlZwcbHFsUHlwJJUDHEWNdUTNDI1zRzXLpLXYMD1q-KbJWCqLxdWFgjR4NOwOiK1zASSXc8zM/s320/PB130027.JPG" width="320" /></a><b> </b><br />
<b>I did not cut all the way through the foam, I just cut the foam on an angle so that the black underneath the grips would not be exposed. </b></div>
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<b>Another way that you can make handgrips easily for screwdrivers or other big sets is to simply cut a long slot in the foam. I filled my slot in the screwdriver drawer with the piece I cut out cut in half. </b><br />
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<b> After you have finished all the cuts, all that is left to do is to secure your foam to the black drawer liner (I found some yellow foam for this drawer). I used spray glue and double sided duct tape. The tape did a much better job, and it is all you really need. </b></div>
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<b>Now all that is left is to load up all of your tools and get to work! </b></div>
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<b>If anybody has other ideas or tips, I would love to hear them. I am always a student! You can email me at jbenz101485@gmail.com or you can just post comments.</b></div>
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<b>Thanks,</b></div>
<div style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-text-size-adjust: none;">
<b>Jared</b><br />
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Jaredhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06281606873543691407noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200380911382924299.post-78987877961722626272012-11-12T05:43:00.000-05:002013-07-25T10:27:04.466-04:00Toolbox envy pictures<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicgMCi9hqWsT33Ula6DrCBqqYW9UngiuwT66HB7_aMhssfyWLvgNw3hfzyxd4B8vk0gp7OPpnRqfPF6W0MtDzS3MnCjV2rKJZwBTLI0vUQvd75r2L5Qw9usCErROPaCKWP5m-ZWa9qQ7w/s1600/PB130002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicgMCi9hqWsT33Ula6DrCBqqYW9UngiuwT66HB7_aMhssfyWLvgNw3hfzyxd4B8vk0gp7OPpnRqfPF6W0MtDzS3MnCjV2rKJZwBTLI0vUQvd75r2L5Qw9usCErROPaCKWP5m-ZWa9qQ7w/s320/PB130002.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Screwdrivers</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTOONtQJhmFC5tNnVsz6rnrrrjrU6a1vzgonf0jHyppmxrou06LdGSL5NvzHqtZ4AmANuGxw7G9maPU8o_NuSFqassH3c8ol4l0_6HPULyt3DZcuMLrb1JnqOGBLFNfSmRPeALC-vFMzw/s1600/Jared%2527s+pics+534.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTOONtQJhmFC5tNnVsz6rnrrrjrU6a1vzgonf0jHyppmxrou06LdGSL5NvzHqtZ4AmANuGxw7G9maPU8o_NuSFqassH3c8ol4l0_6HPULyt3DZcuMLrb1JnqOGBLFNfSmRPeALC-vFMzw/s320/Jared%2527s+pics+534.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Plier Drawer</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiXdozcLWJPvG9GTnXSMuWrhh_IGJqQn5r7hI6CZG_PhHM4wMl4F9JFNkUDWpfQCxmRRRKoBD3tpYUI14UuVHrMEt6wpkZS_ynpB3ArbRFSorejHqpj1op30lFNq_Bo3-Ddigljb6fFRo/s1600/Jared%2527s+pics+538.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiXdozcLWJPvG9GTnXSMuWrhh_IGJqQn5r7hI6CZG_PhHM4wMl4F9JFNkUDWpfQCxmRRRKoBD3tpYUI14UuVHrMEt6wpkZS_ynpB3ArbRFSorejHqpj1op30lFNq_Bo3-Ddigljb6fFRo/s320/Jared%2527s+pics+538.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drive Tools Drawer</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mac Tools MR4C 1/4" Drive Ratchet</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Tm4wdb_tYRzfD26-J0nVOZsql1wcj1R-Mw3udx2_k1dS2jDkkZnhWTp4TDweDcdVPOdnSwKBHTpx0Mgj9bsBrB64HeLgi8kdFJMFlp-HUV06OLbhZOZUmhylGSr0phA9Qwx6Wgqx9oE/s1600/Jared%2527s+pics+548.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Tm4wdb_tYRzfD26-J0nVOZsql1wcj1R-Mw3udx2_k1dS2jDkkZnhWTp4TDweDcdVPOdnSwKBHTpx0Mgj9bsBrB64HeLgi8kdFJMFlp-HUV06OLbhZOZUmhylGSr0phA9Qwx6Wgqx9oE/s320/Jared%2527s+pics+548.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Proto Challenger 6198 1/4" Drive Ratchet</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQBy04mfiN32fy6bI4uMY2zLifEQ7QknocTvjVxvNhtl0XtXNUReb1S0K1Emllx7hewyu54XTsIbk_LJJtoWGVTPwgZlYYV5I6mMbMtC4KZPEQ3t3iOFfDbGv3zHFP9ZObBr9qiWqkDhI/s1600/Jared%2527s+pics+549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQBy04mfiN32fy6bI4uMY2zLifEQ7QknocTvjVxvNhtl0XtXNUReb1S0K1Emllx7hewyu54XTsIbk_LJJtoWGVTPwgZlYYV5I6mMbMtC4KZPEQ3t3iOFfDbGv3zHFP9ZObBr9qiWqkDhI/s320/Jared%2527s+pics+549.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Harbor Freight Thumb Wheel Ratchet</td></tr>
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<br />Jaredhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06281606873543691407noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200380911382924299.post-54167494250412905262012-11-09T00:32:00.001-05:002012-11-14T23:36:41.317-05:00Aviation tools and storage<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc10pwrtxheZmxc0Wjg6QqiNBgAVvVaDfdb-xcT65BDKCDNHqI_RE7EnJAgWNMc6fvMZ8UmCkknmCejV_rSKmeny9gRfdA_6vcysRxzDBIPspHgM8Y2llNEEaiawL_ATYFsdXLMpPJvtY/s1600/PB130011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc10pwrtxheZmxc0Wjg6QqiNBgAVvVaDfdb-xcT65BDKCDNHqI_RE7EnJAgWNMc6fvMZ8UmCkknmCejV_rSKmeny9gRfdA_6vcysRxzDBIPspHgM8Y2llNEEaiawL_ATYFsdXLMpPJvtY/s320/PB130011.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the birds we work on!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I am starting a blog just to have a place to share some of my thoughts on tools and storage for A&P mechanics. These are all the things that I wish that I had known before I started buying tools and storage solutions. I will be posting pictures of my own experiences and projects. Stay posted!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Jared</span>Jaredhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06281606873543691407noreply@blogger.com0